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Mount Ramelau

Mount Ramelau

PeaksAinaro Municipality, Timor-Leste
August·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

These are the driest, clearest months: overnight the valleys below the 2,963 m summit fill with a level cloud sea, the sun rises copper over it, and both of Timor's coasts show above the mist. Dawn near the statue sits close to freezing.



Year-round The alabaster statue, the eroded pilgrim path and the Mambai villages stand here every day of the year; what turns with the season is the road, the mud, and whether the dawn breaks clear.

Mount Ramelau tops out at 2,963 metres, high enough that on a clear dawn you see both of Timor's coasts at once: the Timor Sea to the south, Atauro Island off the north. The Mambai who farm its slopes call it Tatamailau, the "Grandfather of All", the ancestral peak their clans trace themselves back to. The whole range was crumpled out of the seabed where the Australian plate grinds into the Banda arc, and the top is bare volcanic rock and tussock grass. In 1997, in the middle of the Indonesian occupation, a three-metre statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Italy, was raised on the summit; Timorese know her as Nain Feto Ramelau, Our Lady of Ramelau. The same mountain gave the resistance its anthem — "Foho Ramelau", written by Francisco Borja da Costa, who was killed in Dili in December 1975, told Timorese to wake and take back their own land, and was banned under the occupation. Climbers leave the mountain village of Hato Builico around two in the morning and walk up by headlamp on a track first cut as a pilgrimage trail. It passes a wooden chapel at 2,780 metres before the final bare ridge, where the air can sit close to freezing. What waits at the top is not really a view of the ground: the valleys below hold a level sea of cloud, the sun comes up over it, and the light runs from blue to copper across the surface. Around 25 March, for the Feast of the Annunciation, thousands make the climb, and a second pilgrimage follows in October. The mountain also shows its wear — grazing and cutting have left the lower slopes in grass and the upper ones in eucalypt regrowth, and the old pilgrim path is badly cut by erosion.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Leave Hato Builico between 2 and 3 a.m. — it is a two-to-three-hour climb from the trailhead, and the cloud sea below the summit usually breaks up within an hour or two of sunrise.
  • Carry all your water and real warm layers — the last streams are at about 2,550 metres and there is nothing to drink above them, while summit nights fall close to freezing.
  • The 25 March pilgrimage packs the trail — thousands climb for the Feast of the Annunciation, and it falls at the end of the wet season, when a clear dawn is least likely.
  • Take a guide from Hato Builico — the old pilgrimage track is eroded and fades in places above the chapel, and guiding is how the village earns its share of the mountain.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb through the night on the old pilgrim trail

    Climb through the night on the old pilgrim trail

    You leave Hato Builico in the dark and follow the stone-stepped pilgrim path by headlamp, the last village lights dropping away behind you. The summit ridge is bare grass, rock and cold. When the sun finally lifts, the valleys underneath are filled edge to edge with cloud.

  2. 2

    Read the banned anthem on the sanctuary gate

    Read the banned anthem on the sanctuary gate

    The climb starts at a painted arch marked Santuáriu Inan Santa Ramelau. One of its tiled panels carries the verses of "Foho Ramelau", the song that told Timorese to take back their land and that the occupation outlawed. Behind the gate, stone steps set off toward the Virgin Mary on the summit.

  3. 3

    Walk up through the maize gardens below the tree line

    Walk up through the maize gardens below the tree line

    The lower path threads between stone-walled maize plots and clear streams running off the mountain. Children from Hato Builico cross them barefoot with bundles of firewood balanced on their heads — an ordinary morning on a mountain that people actually live on.

  4. 4

    Catch market day with the summit overhead

    Catch market day with the summit overhead

    Once a week the main street of Hato Builico fills with growers down from the high gardens: sacks of potatoes, piles of cabbages, baskets set straight on the ground. Ramelau stands directly over the roofs, and this is the day the scattered mountain hamlets come together.

  5. 5

    Pass a thatched Mambai house in the cloud

    Pass a thatched Mambai house in the cloud

    Round houses with steep thatch and timber posts sit on the grassy shoulders of the mountain, fenced with split rails. As the cloud drifts through they appear and vanish again — homes of families who still graze and farm this high up.

Watch

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