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Mount Yasur

Mount Yasur

PeaksVanuatuTafea,Vanuatu
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A 361-metre cone on Tanna in Vanuatu, erupting every few minutes for 800 years, walked up at dusk to watch the vents throw fire.

September·Peaking now

May–Oct

The dry months bring Yasur's clearest, coolest nights, with little rain and lows near 16°C. Roads and flights to Tanna are at their steadiest. Each burst of lava, every few minutes, stands out bright against a black sky.


Year-round The crater has exploded every few minutes for some 800 years, glowing after dark year-round; the dry months, May to October, bring the clearest nights.

Mount Yasur is a 361-metre volcanic cone on the island of Tanna in Vanuatu, in the South Pacific, and it has been erupting every few minutes for at least 800 years, which makes it the most accessible live volcano on Earth: you drive to its foot, walk to the rim, and look straight down into the vents. The approach is a plain of bare grey ash, blasted clear of almost all life and steaming in patches, with the cone rising out of it. From the lip by daylight you stare down at two or three vents smoking far below, and between the explosions you catch the dull red churn of molten rock; then one of them goes, with a boom you feel in the chest, and lumps of glowing lava are thrown up out of the throat and fall back. The blasts come every few minutes, some small, some big enough to send rock over the rim, and the park grades the activity daily and closes the crater when it climbs too high. The time to be there is dusk. You reach the rim while the sky still holds light, take in the grey cone and the ash flats and the sea beyond, and then watch the colour drain from everything until the crater's orange pulse is the only thing left, each explosion lighting the smoke from inside. Captain Cook saw the glow from the sea in 1774 and steered for it, the first European to land on Tanna. To the people of the island the mountain is not a sight but holy ground: followers of the John Frum movement, which grew here in the 1930s, believe a spirit-messiah lives in the crater with the souls of the dead, and their villages at its foot hold Friday-night ceremonies with the volcano's rumble as the background. Yasur is a volcano you can stand on the edge of after dark, and the island beneath it has been listening to it for centuries.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the sunset tour and stay past dark — arrive while there is still light to read the ash plain and crater, then wait as the sky drops to black and the lava turns blinding.
  • The alert level decides whether you go at all — Vanuatu runs a 0-to-5 activity scale, guides turn everyone back at the higher numbers, and lava bombs have killed visitors who ignored them.
  • A rough 4WD track climbs most of the cone, leaving a short walk to the rim — wear closed shoes for the loose ash and carry a torch, since you come down in the dark.
  • Even in the dry season one cloudy night hides everything — the eruption never stops, but rain and low cloud can blank it out, so leave a spare evening rather than betting on one.
  • The blue half-hour after sunset is the best light — the sky still holds colour while the vents glow orange, and a tripod turns each burst into a trail of fire.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Watch the crater erupt after dark

    Watch the crater erupt after dark

    Get to the rim while the sky still holds light, take in the grey cone and the ash flats, then watch the colour drain until the crater's orange pulse is the only thing left. That half-hour of blue dusk is when the fire first separates from the sky. Once it is properly dark the vents let go every few minutes, throwing ropes of glowing lava high into the black before they clatter back down the slope. The boom reaches you a beat after the flash, and you feel it in your chest.

  2. 2

    Look down into the live vents

    Look down into the live vents

    By daylight you can walk to the lip and stare straight down at two or three vents smoking far below, catching the dull red churn of molten rock between explosions. Few active volcanoes let you stand this close to the throat of the eruption.

  3. 3

    Cross the ash plain to reach it

    Cross the ash plain to reach it

    The drive and short walk in cross a plain of bare grey ash, blasted clear of almost all life and steaming in patches. It is a stark stretch of ground that feels a world away from the tropics around it, and it is also a sacred route. The villagers of Sulphur Bay, followers of the John Frum movement, believe a spirit lives inside the crater with the souls of the dead, and they walk up this way to it.

Watch

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