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Louvre Museum

Louvre Museum

Paris City Guide
Museum · Louvre (1st)Paris, France

The Louvre began not as a museum but as a fortress, its medieval moat and keep still standing in the basement beneath the crowds. Kings enlarged it wing by wing across nearly seven centuries, turning a defensive castle into a sprawling royal palace, until the Revolution flung its doors open in 1793 and made the nation's treasures public. Today it holds tens of thousands of works across former throne rooms and courtyards, from Egyptian mummies to Renaissance masters. I.M. Pei's glass pyramid, once bitterly opposed, now marks its heart. You enter through that pyramid into a light-filled hall, then choose a direction and lose track of time. Corridors run for miles; a single day barely scratches one wing. Most visitors funnel toward a small, guarded painting behind glass, where a scrum of raised phones surrounds the Mona Lisa. But the Louvre rewards wandering — a near-empty gallery of Mesopotamian carvings, the Winged Victory poised on her staircase, sunlight falling across marble. It remains a working palace of art, endlessly full, never finished.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The Mona Lisa isn't the only Leonardo — the Virgin of the Rocks and the Virgin and Child with Saint Anne hang almost alone nearby, while the crowd packs the room next door.
  • The palace hides upstairs — slip into the Napoleon III apartments, all gilt, crimson and chandeliers, and you meet the Louvre as a royal residence, usually near-empty while the crowds chase paintings.
  • Pick one wing, not the whole map — the collection is too vast to conquer. Choosing Egypt or the Dutch masters and going deep beats a forced march past everything.
  • The glass-roofed sculpture courts stay calm — the Cour Marly and Cour Puget, full of daylight and marble, sit just off the main route yet most visitors never drift in.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Descend to the oldest Louvre

    Descend to the oldest Louvre

    Head down to the lower level and walk the dry moat of the original fortress. Follow the pale base of the medieval keep, feel the temperature drop, and stand where the castle's drawbridge once met the water — the first Louvre, hidden beneath all the later ones.

  2. 2

    See the Mona Lisa, then turn away

    See the Mona Lisa, then turn away

    Join the funnel toward the Mona Lisa, hold your spot for a minute, and watch the crowd as much as the painting. Then turn your back on her and walk into the long gallery behind — the same room holds vast Venetian canvases and near-empty benches to sit and look properly.

  3. 3

    Climb to the Winged Victory

    Climb to the Winged Victory

    Find the Daru staircase and pause at its foot before climbing. Look up at the Winged Victory catching an invisible wind, then ascend slowly so she rises against the light above you. It is the museum's best-staged single moment, sculpture and architecture working as one.

  4. 4

    Catch the pyramid at blue hour

    Catch the pyramid at blue hour

    Step out into the courtyard as the light fades. Watch the glass pyramid shift from mirror to lantern as it lights from within, find the reflecting pools, and line the lit triangle up against the old palace wings behind it for the Louvre's signature view.

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