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Rhumsiki Peak

Rhumsiki Peak

PeaksFar North Region, Cameroon
August·Quiet month

Jun–Sep

June to September is the rains — the coolest, greenest months, when millet and sorghum climb the terraces. Nothing formally closes, but dirt tracks turn to mud and cloud smothers the red evening light, so the signature field-of-plugs view rarely lands.



Year-round The needle and its field of volcanic plugs stand every day of the year; the air's clarity, the terraces' colour and the heat swing with the seasons, from cold winter nights to a scorching spring.

Rhumsiki Peak is the hardened core of an old volcano. Roughly 30 million years ago magma cooled and set hard in the throat of a volcano here; the softer cone around it then weathered away, leaving the plug standing bare — a blade of rock rising some 300 metres off the Kapsiki Plateau, to 1,224 metres above the sea. It is the sharpest of dozens of such necks left across this corner of Cameroon's Far North, the northern tip of the Cameroon Volcanic Line. From the plateau the plain reads like a drowned mountain range with only its spires above water, and the flat country past the last of them is already Nigeria. The French writer André Gide crossed here in 1926 and called this landscape among the most beautiful in the world — a line that made Rhumsiki's name abroad. By local tradition the Kapsiki took to these rocks in the eighteenth century, retreating from raiders on the plain, and terraced what ground they had, holding millet and sorghum to the slope behind dry-stone walls. They quarry the same volcanic rock for their round, thatched houses. For a few minutes at each end of the day the needle turns from grey to a deep red-brown. The village blacksmith holds several roles at once: he is also the undertaker, the musician and the healer, and he tells fortunes. He shuts a freshwater crab into a covered pot that holds small tokens, then lifts the lid and reads your future from the way the crab has shifted them. Almost nobody comes to see any of it now. Boko Haram's insurgency reached the Far North in 2013, foreigners were kidnapped, the tour groups stopped, and the lodges below the peak have stood mostly empty since. Cameroon is lobbying European capitals to soften their warnings; Washington and London still tell their citizens not to travel to this region at all.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Read your own government's advisory before you plan anything else — the United States and Britain both advise against all travel to the Far North, and ordinary travel insurance is void inside a do-not-travel zone.
  • The rock only turns red in the last hour before sunset — watch from the ridge that faces the village. Sunrise lights it too, but the far spires usually stay flat and hazy.
  • Harmattan dust hangs over the plateau from December to February — the peak itself stays visible, but the horizon of smaller plugs behind it dissolves, so shoot in the first hours after dawn.
  • Take a village guide — the paths between compounds are unmarked and cross people's fields, and a guide is the difference between meeting a diviner at home and watching a demonstration staged for you.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take the ridge opposite for the evening light

    Take the ridge opposite for the evening light

    The classic view is not from the peak but from the low ridge across the valley, and it is worth being there early and waiting. As the sun drops, the other volcanic towers standing behind Rhumsiki separate out into layers, one dark rank behind the next, each row a little paler than the one in front of it.

  2. 2

    Hike out among the volcanic needles

    Hike out among the volcanic needles

    Paths thread between the plugs and along the terrace walls, and a day can disappear on them. Up close the needles are nothing like the postcard silhouette — cracked, streaked, tufted with trees — and the terraces beneath them are still worked entirely by hand.

  3. 3

    Put a question to the crab diviner

    Put a question to the crab diviner

    You sit in a blacksmith's compound, ask your question, and watch him shut a crab into a clay pot with a scatter of sticks and calabash shards. The waiting is the strange part: several minutes of nothing at all, then a long, careful reading of whatever the crab has moved.

  4. 4

    Walk up through the dry-stone terraces

    Walk up through the dry-stone terraces

    The path climbs between low dry-stone walls that do two jobs at once: they hold the terraced fields to the slope and they mark where one family's land ends and the next begins. Between them stand round houses of dark volcanic stone under thatch, with granaries beside them. These are family compounds, not exhibits — go with a guide, and ask before you step inside or raise a camera.

  5. 5

    Watch cotton spun and woven under the shelters

    Watch cotton spun and woven under the shelters

    Under open thatch, Kapsiki men still work narrow strips of cotton on wooden looms pegged flat into the ground, and the smiths' wives turn pots nearby. It is slow, ordinary, unhurried work, and the strips are later sewn edge to edge into cloth.

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