The Roman Forum is the valley where Rome governed itself, and you walk down it on the Via Sacra, the road generals rode in triumph. Roofless temples line the way, past the Arch of Septimius Severus and the intact brick hall of the Senate house. Beside the valley rises the Palatine Hill, where emperors built palaces so grand that the hill's Latin name became our word for palace. Climb it and the ruins spread into shaded gardens and terraces, the Forum on one side and the long oval of the Circus Maximus on the other.
This valley was a drained marsh, and for centuries it was the centre of the Western world: senators debated and passed the republic's laws here, and temples, law courts and markets stood crowded together on the same ground. Then it filled with earth and was used as pasture, and Romans called it the Campo Vaccino, the cow field, with almost no one realising what lay beneath the grass. On the Palatine, Romans placed the legend of their city's founding. Lizards dart across warm stone, umbrella pines throw shade, and frescoed palace walls survive in the cool half-light below.