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Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni

LakesBoliviaPotosí,Bolivia

The world's largest salt flat, 10,500 square kilometres in Bolivia, so level that a sheet of rain turns the whole plain into a mirror.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

Still dry, still fully open, and the nights are easing off the winter cold. The crust keeps its hexagons and the jeeps thin out; the first showers can wet the edges late in October.



Year-round The salt is always under your feet: 10,500 km² of crust at 3,656 m, the volcano Tunupa on the northern rim, and nights with no light for hundreds of kilometres.

In southwestern Bolivia, high in the Andes, Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt flat, covering 10,500 square kilometres. Its surface is almost perfectly flat for kilometres, and during the dry season the salt crust breaks into regular hexagonal patterns that continue in white all the way to the horizon. During the rainy season, heaviest in January and February, a thin layer of water turns the flat into a vast mirror. The sky seems to continue beneath your feet, the horizon disappears, and walking across the surface can feel like moving through the sky itself. Incahuasi Island rises abruptly from this expanse at its centre, covered with centuries-old giant cacti and standing on the exposed fossil remains of an ancient coral reef. The immense salt plain itself was formed from layers of salt and minerals left behind as a huge prehistoric lake system gradually dried up. Salar de Uyuni is more than an endless white surface. As you move towards its edges and the surrounding high plateau, the landscape changes into a succession of salt-harvesting areas and volcanic peaks, with the vividly coloured lagoons of the Eduardo Avaroa reserve further south, where flamingos gather. The flat is usually explored by four-wheel-drive vehicles, and in the dry months, roughly May to November, they can reach Incahuasi. Its scale becomes easier to understand when you realise how quickly you lose any sense of direction: for kilometres, there may be almost no reference point beyond the horizon. Beneath this apparently empty landscape lies a resource with global economic importance; Salar de Uyuni contains an immense brine reserve associated with one of the world's largest known lithium resources. By day, the plain is defined by intense white light; by night, its high-altitude setting reveals an exceptionally clear sky. Salar de Uyuni is therefore not simply a landscape to look at, but a place whose scale only becomes fully understandable once you are inside it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The mirror is at its best in January and February, when the heaviest rains leave a few centimetres of still water on the crust; toward the drier edges of the season it turns patchy.
  • Go out at first light or in the last hour before sunset, when there's no wind — even a light breeze ripples the surface and breaks the reflection.
  • Reaching Isla Incahuasi and its giant cacti needs the dry season (May–November) — at the height of the floods the island can be cut off by water.
  • Pack real layers, strong sunscreen and sunglasses — at 3,656 metres the nights drop well below freezing even in summer, and the glare off the white is fierce.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk out onto the salt

    Walk out onto the salt

    In the wet season a few centimetres of still water lie over the flat and double the sky: with no fixed horizon, distance stops making sense and clouds pass beneath your boots. Jeeps run out from Uyuni town to reach the middle, where the only marks left are the tyre tracks behind you. As the sun drops the sheet glows orange and pink until ground and sky are one wash of light, and the stillest mirror comes just after sundown. In the dry months the water is gone and you cross hardened crust that crunches underfoot — coarse, grey-edged and rock-hard, nothing like the snow it resembles from a distance.

  2. 2

    Climb Isla Incahuasi

    Climb Isla Incahuasi

    Hike the short rocky trail to the top of this island stranded in the middle of the salt. From the summit the flat runs white and unbroken to distant mountains on every side, and you look straight down onto the crust you just crossed.

  3. 3

    Stargaze between two skies

    Stargaze between two skies

    With no towns for hundreds of kilometres and thin, dry air at altitude, the night sky here is dense with stars. Come in the wet season and the still water doubles them, so the constellations hang above you and below you at once.

  4. 4

    Wander the train cemetery

    Wander the train cemetery

    On the edge of Uyuni town, rows of steam locomotives stand out in the open, eaten away by the salty wind and abandoned when the mining boom that built the railway collapsed. You can climb over the corroded engines, left beside a line British engineers laid in the late 1800s.

Watch

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