Saltos del Monday is a 120-metre-wide wall of rust-red water dropping about 40 metres over black basalt, ten kilometres from Iguazú and almost empty by comparison. Here you are allowed to get close. Walkways run out to the rim, a lift drops you to the riverbank, and from below the noise reaches your chest before the spray reaches your face. The name is Guaraní, taken from the Monday River that feeds the falls. The river comes over in three main curtains, split by islands of rock, and it arrives carrying the iron-rich earth of Alto Paraná, which is what makes the water red.
That red is also a warning. The forest that once held the soil in place has largely gone. The Alto Paraná Atlantic Forest still covered roughly three-quarters of this region in 1973, and by 2017 about nine percent was left, cleared for soy and cattle. The nine-hectare park around the falls is one of the last fragments standing. Watch the soaked rock beside the water and you may pick out great dusky swifts, which cling to the wet cliff and pour into the gorge in flocks at dusk. A steel cable 275 metres long is strung across the gorge for visitors to ride from one side to the other, and others go down the rock face on ropes. The river never stops, because this is the wettest corner of Paraguay and there is no true dry season. It swells with the summer storms from October to January and thins in the July cold.