The Santa Cruz Trek is four days on foot through the Cordillera Blanca, the highest tropical mountain range on Earth. It links the Santa Cruz and Huaripampa valleys, climbing past glacier-fed lakes stained turquoise by rock flour to a high point at Punta Unión, a rock notch barely wide enough for the path at 4,750 metres. Step through the notch and the view splits in two: the green Taullicocha lake on one side, and on the other the sheer fluted ice face of Taulliraju rising to 5,830 metres. The peaks around the route are among the most celebrated in the Andes — Artesonraju, Quitaraju, and the near-perfect pyramid of Alpamayo, voted the world's most beautiful mountain at a 1966 contest in Munich. The whole circuit sits inside Huascarán National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. The park also holds Huascarán itself, at 6,768 metres the highest mountain in Peru.
The reward is not only the peaks but the valleys between them. By day you cross open puna grassland and walk beside lakes lit almost electric blue. By night you camp under skies of startling clarity, while mule trains driven by local arrieros jingle past on paths their families have used for generations. Hiring an arriero frees your back of everything but a daypack, and it is what most walkers do. At first light the glaciers flush pink and gold, and an Andean condor may ride the thermals overhead. The trek needs no ropes and no technical climbing, but the thin air is real. Most walkers spend two or three days acclimatising in Huaraz, at 3,050 metres, before setting off from Cashapampa or Vaquería. Beyond a park fee and a bag warm enough for sub-zero nights, little stands between you and one of South America's great mountain walks.