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Spirit Island (Maligne)

Spirit Island (Maligne)

LakesCanadaAlberta,Canada

Fifty metres of gravel and wind-bent spruce fourteen kilometres down a glacier-fed lake in the Canadian Rockies, reachable only by boat.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

September thins the crowds and cools the valley, the lake still open and turquoise under first snow on the high peaks. Sailings wind down and the season ends about October 11, weather permitting — then the boathouse closes for winter.


Year-round The islet and its wind-bent spruce sit in glacier-fed Maligne Lake all year, but the water shows turquoise only while it is free of ice, and it freezes white by late November. The one boat service runs from late May to early October.

Spirit Island is barely fifty metres of gravel and a handful of wind-bent spruce, yet it is one of the most photographed places in the Canadian Rockies. A Kodak photographer's picture of it hung in New York's Grand Central Terminal in 1960, blown up as a backlit Colorama transparency eighteen feet tall and sixty wide. Millions saw it there before the image travelled the world. The islet lies fourteen kilometres down Maligne Lake, the largest natural lake in the Rockies. That lake is a glacier-fed trough twenty-two kilometres long and ninety-seven metres deep, its water the pale turquoise of rock flour ground fine by the ice upstream. It is not quite an island. A low gravel bar ties it to the shore, and only the spring melt covers the bar. Long before any map named it, the Stoney Nakoda knew this shore as a sacred place of healing. There is no trail to Spirit Island; you reach it by a ninety-minute tour boat from the boathouse at the lake's north end, or by paddling most of a day down the water. The cruise glides between sheer walls of rock, the lake so still that peaks and sky lie doubled on its surface, until the boat pauses at a wooden platform on the shore facing the islet. No one steps onto Spirit Island itself — you have fifteen or twenty minutes to take in the scene the whole world knows, then the boat turns back. The wall behind the islet is Mount Charlton and Mount Unwin, both over 3,200 metres, rising straight out of the water on the west shore.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Book the cruise well ahead in summer — a single operator runs the boats and the short viewing slots sell out; the alternative is a hard four-hour paddle each way.
  • The lake stays frozen into June — cruises run only from about June to early October, so a visit too early in spring can mean no boat at all.
  • The turquoise deepens the farther south you sail — the reach around Spirit Island lies closest to the glaciers, so the water glows a richer blue-green there than at the north-end docks.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cruise the lake to the Spirit Island platform

    Cruise the lake to the Spirit Island platform

    The only way in is a boat that threads fourteen kilometres down the largest lake in the Rockies, gliding between sheer rock walls with the water lying dead still. The colour shifts from milky green to deep turquoise as you near the glaciers, and Spirit Island appears only at the final bend. The boat ties up at a wooden deck on the shore opposite, where the famous view lines up exactly — the tuft of spruce, the still water, the peaks stacked behind. You get fifteen or twenty minutes on that deck, so work the light fast; nobody sets foot on the islet itself. Take the first sailing of the morning; the mirror on the water rarely survives once the wind builds.

  2. 2

    Walk the Mary Schäffer Loop to the lake viewpoint

    Walk the Mary Schäffer Loop to the lake viewpoint

    A flat 3.2-kilometre loop leaves the north-end car park and passes Curly Phillips's log boathouse, built in 1928, on its way to a viewpoint over the lake. Panels at the viewpoint set Mary Schäffer's 1908 photographs against the water in front of you. It is the one long view of Maligne Lake here that does not need a boat, and it takes about an hour.

  3. 3

    Paddle the fourteen kilometres and camp on the lake

    The other way to Spirit Island is your own boat: fourteen kilometres of open water from the launch at the north end, with no trail and no way back except paddling. Three small backcountry campgrounds break the trip — Hidden Cove, Fisherman's Bay and Coronet Creek at the far end — and all of them need a permit booked months ahead. Camping two kilometres short at Fisherman's Bay puts you at the islet before any cruise boat reaches it.

Watch

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