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Tasermiut Fjord

Tasermiut Fjord

PeaksGreenlandKujalleq,Greenland

A roadless Greenland fjord walled by granite faces among the largest on Earth, climbers' Arctic Patagonia, with the country's only natural forest at its head.

September·Edge of season

Sep

The closing shoulder: the Qinngua birch — Greenland's only forest — and the tundra turn red and gold, and the returning dark brings the first aurora over the walls. Boats still run through September, then stop for the winter.



Year-round The granite walls and Greenland's only forest, the Qinngua birch, stand every day of the year. The drift ice, the summer light, the autumn colour, the dark and the boats all come and go.

Tasermiut Fjord is a roadless fjord of seventy kilometres in the Kujalleq municipality of South Greenland, near the town of Nanortalik, walled by faces of granite that are among the largest on Earth and known to climbers as the Arctic Patagonia, with the only natural forest in Greenland standing in the valley at its head, and it is entered by boat from Nanortalik and camped in under walls of a thousand metres. The granite was left standing when the ice cut the fjord, and the walls draw big-wall climbers each summer to Ulamertorsuaq, whose west face rises a thousand metres of pale near-flawless granite from the tundra, and to Ketil, Nalumasortoq and the Tasermiut spire, climbed over days on portaledges; the boat runs up the fjord past the walls and the glacier calving at its head, and the trekking is along the shore and up the side valleys, where the slopes see so few people that Arctic foxes forage in broad daylight within camera range. At the inner end the valley of Qinngua holds downy birch and willow seven or eight metres tall, the only true forest on the island, sheltered by the walls and warmed by the fjord, turning red and gold in September. Nanortalik at the fjord's mouth means the place with polar bears, which are not residents but arrive by ice, since the storis, the multiyear pack ice riding the current around Cape Farewell, jams the south coast each spring and can block the fjord into June, so the first boats thread through drift ice and the odd bear. The hill of Quassik above the town is a short steep walk that opens the skerry-strewn coast and the mouth of the fjord, and a side valley near the head is called Klosterdalen, Monastery Valley, though nobody has proved the Norse built one there. From September the aurora appears over the granite walls while the nights are still mild and the last boats are running. Tasermiut is a fjord of walls at the bottom of Greenland, and the only forest on the island hides at its end.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • A chartered boat from Nanortalik is the only way in — no road reaches the fjord, and skippers turn back when drift ice or swell closes the coast. Build in a spare day.
  • The forest is nowhere near the boat landing — reaching the birch thicket of Qinngua means a long day on foot from the inner fjord, so plan it as a trek rather than a stop.
  • Camps are unserviced and pickups slip — carry a couple of spare days of food and fuel, because wind funnelling down the fjord routinely delays the boat that is meant to collect you.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Spot Arctic foxes on the tundra

    Spot Arctic foxes on the tundra

    The slopes above the fjord see so few people that Arctic foxes forage in broad daylight, often within easy camera range. Their brown summer coats vanish against the lichen-covered boulders until something moves.

  2. 2

    Climb Quassik for the skerry view

    Climb Quassik for the skerry view

    The hill above Nanortalik is a short, steep walk that opens the whole skerry-strewn coast and the mouth of the fjord. Through June and July there is no real darkness, so the ranked peaks inland stay lit in low orange light for hours after what should be sunset.

  3. 3

    Stand at the foot of Ulamertorsuaq's west wall

    Stand at the foot of Ulamertorsuaq's west wall

    Walk to the base and look straight up a thousand metres of pale, near-flawless granite. The size only lands when a climbing team is on the face and the specks halfway up turn out to be people. From a boat at the fjord mouth you get the same walls the other way, with the hull for scale.

  4. 4

    Walk beneath the trees of Qinngua

    Walk beneath the trees of Qinngua

    Trek into the valley at the fjord's inner end and step under a canopy of downy birch and willow seven or eight metres tall — the only natural forest in Greenland. After weeks of bare tundra, the sound of leaves overhead is the strange part.

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