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Twelve Apostles

Twelve Apostles

Coasts & CliffsAustraliaVictoria,Australia

Limestone towers stranded offshore in the Southern Ocean as the Australian cliffs behind them wore back — never twelve, seven standing now, and still falling.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The coast's wildest stretch: the Southern Ocean hurls its biggest swells at the stacks, July turns coldest and August wettest, yet the crowds thin right out. Southern right whales pass offshore, gathering at the Logans Beach nursery west toward Warrnambool.



Year-round The seven limestone stacks stand offshore in every month of the year, and the clifftop lookouts are open and free from dawn to dusk. Nothing here shuts for a season; what changes is the swell, the crowd and the wind.

The Twelve Apostles are a line of limestone sea stacks standing off the cliffs of the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, Australia, left behind in the Southern Ocean as the coast behind them wore back, and there were never twelve: seven stand now, one fell in 2005, and the rest are falling. The cliffs are soft limestone laid down as sea floor and lifted, and the ocean has been cutting them back at about two centimetres a year, carving caves that become arches that collapse into stacks, so the towers are only a few thousand years old and the coast is caught mid-collapse, with new stacks forming as the old ones go. They were called the Sow and Piglets until the 1920s, when the biblical name was chosen for marketing, and it stuck. The boardwalks on the clifftop are where the crowds gather, and the hour is sunset: the stacks go orange, then silhouette against the water, in a change that takes minutes, and after dark little penguins come ashore on the beach below the platforms. The rest of the coast is the same collapse in different stages. A short drive east, Gibson Steps drop down the cliff to an open beach where the stacks tower directly overhead and the swell arrives with nothing to break it; three minutes west, a staircase drops between two stacks into Loch Ard Gorge, a closed beach of pale sand named for a ship wrecked here in 1878 whose two survivors, both nineteen, were washed into this gorge. Beyond it lie arches, blowholes and a bay full of stacks called the Bay of Islands, and a helicopter from the pad beside the visitor centre gives the one view the boardwalks cannot, the towers scattered across turquoise water along a coastline eating itself. From June to September southern right whales pass along the coast, with cows and calves gathering at the nursery off Warrnambool to the west. The Twelve Apostles are a coast falling into the sea in slow motion, and the stacks are the pieces that have not gone yet.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Gibson Steps only works on a dropping tide — at high water the sea reaches the cliff and there is no beach left to stand on.
  • Stay behind the railings, even for a photograph — this cliff is limestone that gives way without warning, and the wind off the Southern Ocean is strong enough to push you.
  • The collapsing coast keeps going west — Loch Ard Gorge and then London Bridge are minutes on, each showing an earlier stage of the same process.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hold a place before the light goes, then wait for the penguins

    Hold a place before the light goes, then wait for the penguins

    The change from orange to silhouette takes minutes, so be standing at the rail well before it starts rather than walking out into it. When the colour is gone, almost everyone leaves. Stay on: a colony of around 800 little penguins comes ashore below the cliffs after dark and crosses the sand to its burrows, fifteen to fifty metres below you, and binoculars beat a camera for it.

  2. 2

    Fly the coast by helicopter

    Fly the coast by helicopter

    Lift off from the pad beside the visitor centre for the one view the boardwalks cannot offer — the stacks scattered across turquoise water and the arches, blowholes and gorges of a coastline caught mid-collapse.

  3. 3

    Climb down Gibson Steps to sea level

    Climb down Gibson Steps to sea level

    A short drive east, a steep stairway cut into the cliff drops to an open beach where the stacks tower directly overhead. Standing on the wet sand is the only way to feel their true height — go near low tide, and never turn your back on the surf.

  4. 4

    Walk down into Loch Ard Gorge

    Walk down into Loch Ard Gorge

    Three minutes west, a staircase drops between two stacks onto a closed beach of pale sand where the swell arrives muffled. The clipper Loch Ard struck Muttonbird Island just offshore in June 1878; two eighteen-year-olds, Tom Pearce and Eva Carmichael, washed into this gorge and were the only people aboard to live. Four of the dead are buried in the small cemetery on the cliff above.

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