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Ubari Lakes

Ubari Lakes

DesertsLibyaFezzan,Libya

Some twenty palm-fringed brine pools in the troughs of a Libyan sand sea, salt enough to float you, filled by rain from a green Sahara.

September·Quiet month

Apr–Sep

The lakes, palms and brine shrimp are still here, but almost no one crosses: daytime heat climbs from the low 30s in April to a punishing 36–39°C by midsummer, and mosquito swarms reclaim the shores. Guided crossings effectively stop until the autumn cool.



Year-round Fossil springs feed the lakes year-round — the water, the palms and the brine shrimp are here every month.

The Ubari Lakes are some twenty pools of brine fringed with date palms lying in the troughs of the Idehan Ubari, a sand sea in the Fezzan of southwestern Libya, salty enough to float a bather without a stroke, and filled by rain that fell on a green Sahara thousands of years ago, seeping in from under the dunes; they are reached by hours of dune driving with a licensed guide. The lakes sit in a basin between dunes a hundred metres high, and the water table that feeds them is fossil, so they shrink as the aquifer is pumped, and Mandara, once the most photographed, is now a hollow of wrinkled salt and dried mud with its palms dying around it; Gaberoun is the largest that remains, its water as warm as a bath and dense enough to sit in, so that wading out and leaning back the lake holds the body at chest height. Umm al-Maa, the Mother of Water, is the loveliest, and early in the morning before the wind gets up it goes completely still and doubles the palms leaning over it in near-black water. The families who lived on these shores were the Dawada, the worm eaters, named for the one crop the desert reliably gave them, the lake's red brine shrimp, netted and dried; the shrimp lay hard-shelled eggs that survive years of complete drying in the salt crust and hatch within hours of water returning, which is how they outlast the droughts. The Dawada were moved to new villages in the 1980s and the shores are empty, with the ruins of their mud houses at Gaberoun and a few Tuareg tents for the visitors. October to March is the only window the guides cross the sand sea, when the dune surface is cool enough to drive and walk on and the mosquitoes of the hot months are gone. The Ubari Lakes are the Sahara's old rain standing in the sand, and the desert is drinking it back.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Rinse at the shore well before the salt dries on you — locals keep wells beside the lakes for exactly this, and a brine crust left to set itches for hours in the dry air.
  • The reflection only holds in the first hours after dawn — once the wind comes up the palms break apart on the surface and the water turns flat and dull for the rest of the day.
  • Climb the dune before you walk down to the water — from the crest the whole pool and its ring of palms fit into a single frame; from the shore you never see the shape.
  • Security in southern Libya changes month to month — confirm regional access with your operator close to departure, and expect checkpoints on the long drive down through Sabha.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Float in water you cannot sink in

    Float in water you cannot sink in

    Gaberoun's water is as warm as a bath and dense enough to sit in: wade out, lean back, and the lake holds you at chest height without a stroke. Keep your face well clear of it — one splash in the eyes ends the swim — and drift looking at the palm belt and the sand wall behind it.

  2. 2

    Cross the Idehan Ubari by 4x4

    Cross the Idehan Ubari by 4x4

    There is no road in: reaching the water means hours of dune driving with a licensed guide, engines revving up soft slopes and dropping down the far side, with nothing but sand ridges in every direction. Then you come over one last wall and the whole oasis lies below: a blue sheet of water and a thick belt of date palms. On the far shore stand the low huts of the camp, beside the mud walls the Dawada left behind. Sit up on the crest a while before you walk down; the emptiness behind you is what makes the water so hard to believe.

  3. 3

    Wait for the windless hour at Umm al-Maa

    Wait for the windless hour at Umm al-Maa

    Early in the morning, before the wind gets up, the Mother of Water goes completely still and doubles the palms leaning over it in near-black water. Sit on the sand slope above the shore and you can hear the reeds moving, and nothing else. From up there the lake reads as what it is — a narrow dark blade edged in palms, with sand running unbroken to the horizon on every side.

  4. 4

    Stand on Mandara's dry bed

    Mandara was one of the three lakes everyone came to see, and it is now a floor of wrinkled salt and dried mud, its palms dying back around a hollow with no water in it. Guides still drive out here, and standing on the crust shows plainly what the falling water table has done to these lakes.

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