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Voltzberg Dome

Voltzberg Dome

PeaksSurinameRaleighvallen, Central Suriname Nature Reserve,Suriname

A bald granite dome 240 metres high standing out of roadless Suriname rainforest, reached by river and a four-hour walk, with cacti on its summit.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Nov

The long dry season and prime window: September to November are the year's driest months, so the forest trail firms up and the granite dries out, canopy views turn sharpest, and licensed operators run their four-day trips. Brutal heat waits on the shadeless dome.



Year-round The dome, the roadless summit horizon and the forest's monkeys and macaws stand here every day; what turns with the year is the cock-of-the-rock lek and how wet and walkable the forest trail is.

The Voltzberg Dome is a bald granite dome 240 metres high standing out of the roadless rainforest of the Central Suriname Nature Reserve, in Suriname, reached by a day's journey up the Coppename river in a dugout korjaal and a four-hour walk through forest that has never been cut or hunted, with cacti growing on its summit and the largest lek of the cock-of-the-rock in the Guianas at its foot. The dome is an inselberg, a knob of granite two billion years old that the rain has stripped of soil while the forest grew around it, and nothing else stripped it, since the rock sheds water and heat too fast for anything but lichen and a few succulents to hold on; the only way in is by water, from the Raleighvallen rapids where the river breaks over black rock and the camp stands on an island, and then six kilometres of primary forest, creeks crossed on fallen trunks, buttress roots taller than a person and fungi on every rotting branch, with spider monkeys and macaws overhead. The climb goes up the bare granite before the sun finds it, since the dome is shadeless and turns into a hotplate later, and the top gives a view over unbroken forest to every horizon, the canopy going grey with distance. The cock-of-the-rock lek is the other reason for the walk. From December to April some 55 orange males hold cleared courts on the forest floor near the dome, each on his own patch of ground, bowing and flaring their crests for whichever brown female comes to look, hardest at dawn, in a display that has been studied here for decades. The reserve is 1.6 million hectares of forest joined into one block in 1998 from three older reserves, brokered by Conservation International and the government, and it is one of the least visited places in South America, with a handful of visitors a week. The Voltzberg is a bare rock in a green sea, and the birds dance at its foot.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Aim for a drier window — September to November, or February to March. From April to August the long rains make the granite slick and turn the forest trail to deep mud.
  • Nothing about this is walk-up. River transport, guide and camp all come through a licensed operator out of Paramaribo, and the shortest realistic trip runs three to four days.
  • Carry every litre you will drink. There is no water on the trail or on the dome, and the climb comes at the end of a long, humid forest walk in full tropical heat.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride a korjaal up the Coppename to the rapids

    Ride a korjaal up the Coppename to the rapids

    The only way in is by water. A korjaal — a long, narrow dugout — carries you and the week's gear up the Coppename River to Raleigh Falls, where the current breaks white over granite ledges and the forest closes in on both banks.

  2. 2

    Walk in through forest that has never been cut or hunted

    Walk in through forest that has never been cut or hunted

    Six kilometres of primary rainforest lie between the river and the rock: creeks crossed on fallen trunks, buttress roots taller than you are, fungi on every rotting branch. Nothing here has been logged or hunted, and the animals have not learned to be afraid of people.

  3. 3

    Climb the bare granite before the sun finds it

    Climb the bare granite before the sun finds it

    Leave the camp at the foot of the rock in the dark, because the dome is shadeless and turns into a hotplate later. The trees simply stop and coarse charcoal-grey granite takes over, steep enough in places to put you on your hands, with nothing on it but cacti, lizards and the grip of your boots. From the top the canopy runs to every horizon and other domes break through it like islands, Van Stockumberg among them, while macaws and toucans cross below you leaving their roosts.

  4. 4

    Sit at the cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn

    Sit at the cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn

    In the early morning, orange males gather on the forest floor near the dome, each on his own patch of cleared ground, bowing and flaring for whichever female decides to come and look. It is one of the great bird displays of the Guiana Shield, and it happens within walking distance of the trail.

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