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Voltzberg Dome

Voltzberg Dome

PeaksRaleighvallen, Central Suriname Nature Reserve, Suriname
August·Edge of season

Aug

August is the turn back toward dry: the long rains fade through the month and the forest trail begins to firm, though the granite can still be greasy after a downpour. The dry-season tour groups have not fully started up yet.



Year-round The dome, the roadless summit horizon and the forest's monkeys and macaws stand here every day; what turns with the year is the cock-of-the-rock lek and how wet and walkable the forest trail is.

Voltzberg is printed on the back of Suriname's twenty-dollar note: a bald dome of granite, 240 metres high, pushing up through forest that runs unbroken to every horizon. It is an inselberg — a plug of hard Precambrian rock from the Guiana Shield, left standing after the softer ground around it wore away over hundreds of millions of years. A young German geologist, Friedrich Voltz, saw it from the river in the 1850s and was dead of yellow fever in Paramaribo at twenty-seven; the mountain kept his name. Suriname gave it protection: in 1998 the dome was folded into the Central Suriname Nature Reserve, 1.6 million hectares of forest covering roughly a tenth of the country, listed by UNESCO in 2000. Nobody lives inside it, nobody hunts inside it, and no road reaches it. You arrive by boat up the Coppename River, past the rapids of Raleigh Falls, and then you walk. The trail runs six kilometres and three to four hours through primary forest, over creeks bridged with fallen trunks, under trees whose roots stand higher than you do. Somewhere off it, orange cocks-of-the-rock hold their lek. Then the trees stop and the rock begins: coarse charcoal-grey granite, so steep in places that you climb on your hands, dotted with cacti and lizards — a scrap of drought country perched above the rainforest. From the top the canopy spreads out like a green sea, other bare domes standing up out of it like islands, and macaws cross below you as they leave their roosts. It stays a serious trip. There is no lodge and no shelter on the mountain; you come with a licensed operator, sleep on an island in the river, and camp at the foot of the rock.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Be on the summit at first light and off it by mid-morning — the dome has no shade whatsoever, and bare granite turns into a hotplate once the sun is properly up.
  • Ask your guide for the cock-of-the-rock side trail and go at dawn; the orange males display on the forest floor early, and by late morning the lek has usually gone quiet.
  • Aim for a drier window — September to November, or February to March. From April to August the long rains make the granite slick and turn the forest trail to deep mud.
  • Nothing about this is walk-up. River transport, guide and camp all come through a licensed operator out of Paramaribo, and the shortest realistic trip runs three to four days.
  • Carry every litre you will drink. There is no water on the trail or on the dome, and the climb comes at the end of a long, humid forest walk in full tropical heat.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride a korjaal up the Coppename to the rapids

    Ride a korjaal up the Coppename to the rapids

    The only way in is by water. A korjaal — a long, narrow dugout — carries you and the week's gear up the Coppename River to Raleigh Falls, where the current breaks white over granite ledges and the forest closes in on both banks.

  2. 2

    Walk in through forest that has never been cut or hunted

    Walk in through forest that has never been cut or hunted

    Six kilometres of primary rainforest lie between the river and the rock: creeks crossed on fallen trunks, buttress roots taller than you are, fungi on every rotting branch. Nothing here has been logged or hunted, and the animals have not learned to be afraid of people.

  3. 3

    Scramble up the bare granite of the dome

    Scramble up the bare granite of the dome

    The trees simply stop and coarse charcoal-grey rock takes over. The slope is steep enough in places to put you on your hands, and there is nothing on it but cacti, lizards and the grip of your boots — hours of enclosed jungle traded for open sky in a few minutes.

  4. 4

    Break camp before dawn to be on the summit at first light

    Break camp before dawn to be on the summit at first light

    Leave the camp at the foot of the rock in the dark and haul up the granite while it is still cool, timing it so you are in place as the light comes. This is the one window that works: macaws and toucans cross below you leaving their roosts and howler monkeys start up back in the trees, and you are down off the shadeless dome before it turns into a hotplate by mid-morning.

  5. 5

    Pick out the neighbouring domes from the summit

    Pick out the neighbouring domes from the summit

    Voltzberg is not alone. From the top you can see other granite domes — Van Stockumberg among them, steeper and harder to climb — breaking through the canopy like islands in a green sea, each one a piece of the same ancient shield rock.

  6. 6

    Sit at the cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn

    Sit at the cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn

    In the early morning, orange males gather on the forest floor near the dome, each on his own patch of cleared ground, bowing and flaring for whichever female decides to come and look. It is one of the great bird displays of the Guiana Shield, and it happens within walking distance of the trail.

Nearby

Kaieteur Falls 372 km

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