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Yehliu Geopark

Yehliu Geopark

Rock FormationsNew Taipei, Wanli District, Taiwan
August·Quiet month

Jun–Aug

Summer is hot and shadeless, with highs above 30°C on bare rock, and typhoons can close the park from June on. The one draw is the ticketed night opening, about two weeks in late June and early July, when the stones are lit after dark.



Year-round The mushroom stones, candle rocks and honeycomb reef stand on this cape year-round; out at the point there is no railing, only a red line painted on the rock and the sea.

Yehliu's Queen's Head owes her face to an accident. Around 1962 chunks broke from the top of an ordinary mushroom rock on this cape north of Taipei, leaving a silhouette so like the bust of Nefertiti that the name stuck. The same erosion is now taking her back: 3D scans put her neck at 138 centimetres around in 2005 and 118 by 2023, and the park expects it to snap. She is one of hundreds of mushroom stones on a sandstone promontory that runs 1,700 metres into the sea, lifted there by two colliding tectonic plates. Each cap is a concretion, a lump of sandstone that lime cemented rock-hard on the Miocene seabed. The stone beneath never got that armour, so salt, spray and wind hollow it away until the neck fails. The same imbalance carves the cape's candle rocks, its knuckled ginger rocks and its honeycombed reef. At low tide the platform reads less like a park than an alien seabed: pools sunk into the honeycomb, crabs in the hollows, stems no thicker than an arm holding up boulders the size of a car. Walk on to the wooded tip and the cape changes character: this is the best migrant trap on mainland Taiwan, and each spring tired birds drop into its scrub — Siberian rubythroats, paradise flycatchers — more than 300 species logged on a headland you can cross in half an hour. The sea is the other constant: no railings out here, only a red line painted on the rock, and in 1964 a Yehliu fisherman drowned going in after a student the waves had taken. Today the cape is ticketed and crowded: the Queen has her own roped queue, a scanned replica stands by the entrance, and for two weeks each summer the park reopens after dark to throw light across the stones.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Be at the gate when it opens at 8am on a weekday — the Taipei tour buses arrive mid-morning, and the reef offers no shade at all once the sun is high.
  • In spring, keep walking past the rocks to the wooded tip — the scrub there is where the migrants come down, and the first hour after dawn is when they feed.
  • Wear shoes that grip — the honeycombed sandstone is uneven underfoot, and it turns slick wherever spray or a tide pool has wet it.
  • Typhoon season, roughly June to October, can close the park at short notice — check the park's notice on the morning you go, not the night before.
  • Book the summer night opening well ahead — tickets are capped, dated and sold weeks in advance, so buy them before you build a trip around them.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take your turn at the Queen's Head

    Take your turn at the Queen's Head

    A rope funnels everyone into single file at the most photographed rock in Taiwan, and the marked spot is the one place where the crown, the chin and the thinning neck line up into a profile. Rangers keep hands off the stone, and the queue moves briskly, so know the frame you want before you reach the front.

  2. 2

    Walk the honeycombed reef at low tide

    Walk the honeycombed reef at low tide

    Retreating water uncovers a wide sandstone shelf pitted with thousands of round hollows, each one started by salt crystals prising the rock apart from the inside. Crabs work the pools between the pits, and the pattern runs unbroken to the waterline.

  3. 3

    Walk out to the open tip and stand behind the red line

    Walk out to the open tip and stand behind the red line

    Past the rock field the path climbs to the exposed end of the promontory. There are no railings here, only a red line painted on the rock between you and the dark boulders the waves break over. On a windy day the spray carries all the way up to the path. This is the sea that is thinning every mushroom neck in the park, seen at close range.

  4. 4

    Read the mushroom stones stage by stage

    Read the mushroom stones stage by stage

    Dozens of mushroom rocks stand together at wildly different heights — some knee-high, some well above your head — because every cap sits on a neck at its own point in the same slow collapse. Walking the marked path between them is the clearest way to see where the Queen is headed.

  5. 5

    Look for spring migrants in the cape's scrub

    From March to May the wooded neck of the cape fills with birds that have just crossed open sea, and almost nobody in the rock-field crowd notices them. Walk past the last mushroom stones into the low green tangle and keep your eyes down: these travellers work the undergrowth, not the canopy. The photographers with long lenses are here for the same reason, hoping a rare species turns up among the regulars.

Watch

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