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Asmara

Asmara

Historic TownsMaekel, Eritrea
August·Quiet month

Jun–Aug

The kremti rains: afternoon storms most days and August overcast four times in five, the wettest month. Mornings often break bright and the plateau greens over. Nothing shuts — the espresso bars, cinemas and evening walk carry on between downpours.



Year-round The Modernist city, its cinemas, arcades, espresso bars and the dusk passeggiata along Harnet Avenue, stands and runs every day of the year, 2,325 m up where days stay mild and nights cool.

Asmara is a whole Art Deco city, thrown up in six years and then left almost untouched for eighty. Between 1935 and 1941 Italy's colonial regime built itself a modern capital 2,325 metres up on the Eritrean plateau, and the Futurist and Rationalist architects it sent drew things here that no client back home would have approved. Giuseppe Pettazzi's Fiat Tagliero service station throws two 15-metre concrete wings out over its forecourt with nothing underneath holding them up. Cinema Impero opened in 1937 behind a facade of ranked porthole lamps; the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary went up in brick and Lombard arches. Then the money stopped. Federation with Ethiopia, a thirty-year war of independence and decades of isolation left nobody with the means to knock any of it down, so where Europe cleared away its own modernist quarters, Asmara kept hers. UNESCO inscribed the 480-hectare centre whole in 2017 — the first modernist city listed in its entirety. The pleasure of the place is walking, and in the evening the whole city does it, drifting up and down palm-lined Harnet Avenue past espresso bars older than the republic. Fiats from the 1960s, kept alive without spare parts, wait at the taxi ranks. The buildings are preserved rather than restored — ochre paint chalking off, laundry hung across Rationalist balconies. Rain comes with the kremti storms of June to September, and as they pull back the plateau turns yellow with daisies. Reaching it is the hard part: Eritrea is among the least-visited countries on earth, foreigners need a permit to go more than 25 kilometres beyond the city, and pointing a camera at anything official is illegal. The railway down the escarpment to the Red Sea no longer runs as a through service — its Italian steam engines now haul chartered visitors only as far as Arbaroba.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Anything more than 25 km outside Asmara needs a travel permit — apply at the Ministry of Tourism office on Harnet Avenue and allow one to three working days, so file it on your first morning.
  • Keep the camera down around anything official — photographing government buildings, bridges, checkpoints and soldiers is illegal, and foreigners have been questioned over ordinary street shots taken near uniforms.
  • Shoot the facades early and walk the city late — the highland sun rakes low along the avenues before nine, and the passeggiata fills Harnet Avenue from about six until dinner.
  • The steam train runs as a charter, not a service — there is no timetable and no ticket window, since an operator hires the locomotive for a whole group, so join an existing trip.
  • Nights are cold whatever the afternoon felt like — at 2,325 metres the temperature can swing as much as 20°C between day and night, so carry a jacket even in the warm dry months.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Photograph the Fiat Tagliero

    Photograph the Fiat Tagliero

    Cross the road and look up: two concrete wings, fifteen metres to a side, reach out over the old forecourt from a tower shaped like a cockpit, and not one column stands under them. Pettazzi finished it in 1938 and it has not moved since. The pumps beneath are idle now and the apron is fenced, but the building still looks like it is taxiing for take-off.

  2. 2

    Catch a film at Cinema Impero

    Catch a film at Cinema Impero

    Opened in 1937 on Harnet Avenue behind a facade of stacked porthole lamps, the Impero is one of the finest Art Deco cinemas left standing anywhere, and it still shows films. Buy a ticket for whatever is screening — you are really there for the room, the terrazzo and the marquee coming on at dusk.

  3. 3

    Ride the steam train down to Arbaroba

    Ride the steam train down to Arbaroba

    Italian-built steam locomotives, some of them articulated Mallets, still work the top of the line that Italian engineers cut into the escarpment through thirty-odd tunnels and sixty-five bridges. The track below has decayed, so trains no longer reach Massawa; a chartered run drops to Arbaroba and back in about three hours, hooting through cuttings above a plunging valley.

  4. 4

    Take a macchiato under the Opera House arches

    Take a macchiato under the Opera House arches

    Climb the steps to Odoardo Cavagnari's 1918 theatre, where a colonnade of Romanesque arches faces the street beneath a painted loggia. The foyer is a café now and the auditorium is given over to rehearsals and local performances rather than Verdi. Order a macchiato, sit under the arcade and watch the avenue go by.

  5. 5

    Walk the palm-lined length of Harnet Avenue

    Walk the palm-lined length of Harnet Avenue

    The historic centre is small enough to cross in an afternoon, and the modernism is not in the monuments but in the ordinary blocks: porticoed pavements, Cubist apartment buildings, banks with Moorish arches, a petrol station shaped like a boat. Traffic is thin, the palms throw shade the whole way, and every corner turns up another facade.

Watch

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