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Asmara

Asmara

Historic TownsEritreaMaekel,Eritrea

An entire Art Deco city built in Eritrea's highlands between 1935 and 1941 and never modernised, preserved by war and isolation rather than by planning.

September·Peaking now

Sep

Days are near 23°C and the air is washed clean.



Year-round The Modernist city is here every day of the year, with its cinemas, arcades, espresso bars and the passeggiata, the evening stroll along Harnet Avenue at dusk. It sits 2,325 m up, where days stay mild and nights cool.

Asmara is the capital of Eritrea, a city of 2,300 metres in the highlands where the Italians built an entire modernist city between 1935 and 1941 in the six years of their empire, and it was never modernised, preserved by war and isolation rather than planning, so that it stands as the most complete Art Deco and futurist townscape on Earth, walked in an afternoon along its palm-lined avenues. Mussolini's architects treated the city as a drawing board, and the results are still in use: the Fiat Tagliero service station of 1938, whose two concrete wings fifteen metres to a side reach out over the forecourt from a tower shaped like a cockpit with not one column beneath them, after the architect Pettazzi is said to have threatened the builders with a pistol to make them remove the props; the Cinema Impero of 1937 on Harnet Avenue, behind a facade of stacked porthole lamps, one of the finest Deco cinemas left standing and still showing films; the Opera House of 1918 with its colonnade of Romanesque arches, where the macchiato is drunk on the steps. The elegant centre was drawn for Italians only, with a fence of law that kept the Eritreans in their own quarter, a line that can no longer be seen but shaped the city. The modernism is not only in the monuments but in the ordinary blocks, the villas, bars and cinemas of the whole centre, listed by UNESCO in 2017, and the city's cafés keep the Italian habit of the evening walk and the espresso. Italian-built steam locomotives, some of them articulated Mallets, still work the top of the railway that engineers cut into the escarpment through thirty-odd tunnels and sixty-five bridges, running down to Arbaroba on excursion days, and on the outskirts lies one of the largest scrapyards of war machinery anywhere, hundreds of tanks and armoured trucks from thirty years of fighting stacked in rusting heaps. In September the plateau comes up yellow with the Meskel daisy. Asmara is a city that time skipped, and the skipping is what saved it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Anything more than 25 km outside Asmara needs a travel permit — apply at the Ministry of Tourism office on Harnet Avenue and allow one to three working days, so file it on your first morning.
  • Keep the camera down around anything official — photographing government buildings, bridges, checkpoints and soldiers is illegal, and foreigners have been questioned over ordinary street shots taken near uniforms.
  • Shoot the facades early and walk the city late — the highland sun rakes low along the avenues before nine, and the passeggiata fills Harnet Avenue from about six until dinner.
  • The steam train runs as a charter, not a service — there is no timetable and no ticket window, since an operator hires the locomotive for a whole group, so join an existing trip.
  • Nights are cold whatever the afternoon felt like — at 2,325 metres the temperature can swing as much as 20°C between day and night, so carry a jacket even in the warm dry months.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Photograph the Fiat Tagliero

    Photograph the Fiat Tagliero

    Cross the road and look up: two concrete wings, fifteen metres to a side, reach out over the old forecourt from a tower shaped like a cockpit, and not one column stands under them. Pettazzi finished it in 1938 and it has not moved since. The pumps beneath are idle now and the apron is fenced, but the building still looks like it is taxiing for take-off.

  2. 2

    Catch a film at Cinema Impero

    Catch a film at Cinema Impero

    Opened in 1937 on Harnet Avenue behind a facade of stacked porthole lamps, the Impero is one of the finest Art Deco cinemas left standing anywhere, and it still shows films. Sit down for whatever is screening — you are really there for the room, the terrazzo and the marquee coming on at dusk.

  3. 3

    Ride the steam train down to Arbaroba

    Ride the steam train down to Arbaroba

    Italian-built steam locomotives, some of them articulated Mallets, still work the top of the line that Italian engineers cut into the escarpment through thirty-odd tunnels and sixty-five bridges. The track below has decayed, so trains no longer reach Massawa; a chartered run drops to Arbaroba and back in about three hours, hooting through cuttings above a plunging valley.

  4. 4

    Take a macchiato under the Opera House arches

    Take a macchiato under the Opera House arches

    Climb the steps to Odoardo Cavagnari's 1918 theatre, where a colonnade of Romanesque arches faces the street beneath a painted loggia. The foyer is a café now and the auditorium is given over to rehearsals and local performances rather than Verdi. Order a macchiato, sit under the arcade and watch the avenue go by.

  5. 5

    Walk the palm-lined length of Harnet Avenue

    Walk the palm-lined length of Harnet Avenue

    The historic centre is small enough to cross in an afternoon, and the modernism is not in the monuments but in the ordinary blocks. There are porticoed pavements, Cubist apartment buildings, banks with Moorish arches, a petrol station shaped like a boat. Traffic is thin, the palms throw shade the whole way, and every corner turns up another facade.

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