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Bazaruto Archipelago

Bazaruto Archipelago

IslandsMozambiqueInhambane,Mozambique

Five Mozambican islands of sand rather than rock, dunes reaching ninety metres, whose seagrass shallows hold the last dugongs in the western Indian Ocean.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Oct

Humpback whales calve and breach within sight of the boats through the cool, dry winter, when the skies are clearest and the water bottoms out near 24°C — the archipelago at its best for whales and diving.



Year-round The dugongs, the reefs and the great dunes are here all year. Only the whales and the nesting turtles arrive at set times.

The Bazaruto Archipelago shelters the last dugongs of East Africa. Aerial surveys flown between 2017 and 2021 counted roughly 325 of these shy sea cows over its seagrass meadows, the only population left in the western Indian Ocean believed large enough to sustain itself. The five islands they feed around are made of sand rather than rock, heaped by the wind into dunes that reach about 90 metres along Bazaruto's eastern shore. Most people meet the place from the air first. The water reads as bands of jade, milk and deep blue, and as the tide falls the sandbanks surface as long white ribbons with nothing on them but bird tracks. Climb a dune ridge on Bazaruto and the ocean lies on one side, while inland there are freshwater lakes with basking crocodiles and wading flamingos. Offshore, Two Mile Reef draws snorkellers into water clear enough to read the reef from the surface. This is also the only place in the western Indian Ocean where all five of the region's sea turtle species come ashore to nest. Mozambique declared the archipelago its first marine national park in 1971, and the protected area now covers 1,430 square kilometres of islands, reefs and shallows. Since 2017 the government has run it together with the conservation group African Parks. Roughly 6,500 people live on three of the islands and fish these same shallows. The park's main job now is to let those families keep fishing while the dugongs, and the seagrass they feed on, survive in the same water.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Fly the archipelago on a falling tide — the spits and sandbanks only surface as the water pulls back, and from Vilanculos the light aircraft hop is short enough to make the timing worth planning around.
  • A dugong shows itself for barely a few seconds — scan the seagrass shallows on a glassy morning and let the boat drift; the smallest wind chop hides them completely.
  • Climb the dunes at first light or late afternoon — the sand turns scorching by midday and there is no shade anywhere on the ridge, and bare feet grip the steep slip face better than shoes.
  • Vilanculos is the only gateway — boats and light aircraft leave from there, day trips reach the nearer islands, and the park collects a conservation fee from every visitor on arrival.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See the sandbanks surface from the air

    See the sandbanks surface from the air

    The light aircraft hop from Vilanculos is the only way to read the archipelago whole: five sand islands ringed in bands of jade and deep blue, with the tide-drawn sandbanks curling between them. From the ground you see a beach; from the air you see how the whole place is built.

  2. 2

    Climb the dune ridge on Bazaruto

    Climb the dune ridge on Bazaruto

    The dunes along Bazaruto's eastern shore rise to about 90 metres, and the walk up their windward flank is slow, sinking work. From the crest the ocean spreads on one side and the island's inland lakes on the other, and the way down is a few seconds of running descent through sand that pours away underfoot.

  3. 3

    Walk a sandspit that appears at low tide

    Walk a sandspit that appears at low tide

    As the water drops, long white spits rise out of the shallows with turquoise on both sides and nothing on them but bird tracks. They belong to the sea for half of every day, which is why they stay empty — you walk out, and a few hours later the ribbon you stood on is gone.

  4. 4

    Look for one of the last dugongs

    Look for one of the last dugongs

    Boats drift over the seagrass beds where the western Indian Ocean's final dugong population still grazes — a few hundred animals, and shy ones. A sighting is a grey back and a nostril breaking the surface for a moment, and it is never promised; guides are honest that many mornings pass without one.

  5. 5

    Snorkel Two Mile Reef

    Snorkel Two Mile Reef

    The archipelago's best-known reef lies in warm, exceptionally clear water between Bazaruto and Benguerra, shallow enough that snorkellers see as much as divers do. Reef fish, rays and turtles work the coral heads, and the visibility is what people remember.

Watch

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