The Great Blue Hole is a dark circle 300 metres across in the turquoise water of Belize's barrier reef, about 70 kilometres off the coast, and it drops 124 metres straight down. It was a cave. During the Ice Ages, when the sea was far lower, this was a dry limestone cavern with stalactites growing from its roof; when the ice melted and the sea rose, the roof collapsed and the ocean filled it. The stalactites are still there. Divers drop down the sheer inner wall to about 40 metres, where ten-metre spikes of stone lean out of the gloom and Caribbean reef sharks pass along the blue, and the layers in that rock record the ages when this was open air. Below them the hole gets darker and emptier. At the bottom there is no oxygen and nothing lives; for all its fame, the deepest part of the Blue Hole is dead.
The famous view is from above. A small plane out over Lighthouse Reef shows the ring exactly as it appears in every photograph, a navy circle set in pale turquoise with its edge marked by a thin line of coral, and from the air its scale finally makes sense. Most visitors come by boat, and the boat ride is long, two hours or more each way across open sea, which is why the hole is usually the centre of a full day with two more dives on the reefs nearby. The shaft itself is almost colourless; the colour is on the shallow flats around the rim, where snorkellers float over coral heads, angelfish and rays in water a few metres deep. April to June is the calm window, when the winter winds have dropped and the water over the shaft is at its clearest. The Blue Hole is one of the very few places where you can swim down through the roof of a cave that the sea drowned at the end of the last Ice Age.