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Cal Madow

Cal Madow

PeaksSomaliaSanaag, Somaliland,Somalia

Somalia's last cloud forest, a limestone escarpment above the Gulf of Aden that drinks monsoon fog and grows two hundred plants found nowhere else.

September·Quiet month

Jul–Oct

The dry Xagaa months firm the tracks again from July under hot, hazy, windy skies. But the cloud-forest fog is gone and the plateau is at its plainest, until October's short Deyr rains soften the roads once more.



Year-round The juniper cloud forest, the cliff frankincense trees and the kilometre-deep escarpment view stand every day of the year; what changes is the monsoon fog, the mud on the tracks, and the resin harvest's cycle.

Cal Madow is the last cloud forest of Somalia, a limestone escarpment in the Sanaag region of Somaliland rising to 2,400 metres above the Gulf of Aden, whose north-facing wall drinks the fog of the monsoon and grows some two hundred plants found nowhere else, with juniper, tree aloes and the frankincense trees whose resin the Arabian buyers pay most for, and it is walked in the Daallo forest above the town of Erigavo and at a waterfall that drops off the escarpment face. From November the northeast monsoon drives damp air off the gulf against the wall, where it cools into cloud that wraps the juniper through the dry winter, the moisture that keeps the forest alive once the plateau's rains stop; the Daallo forest is gnarled African juniper, boxwood and tree aloes with cloud drifting through the branches, driven into on tracks and walked, and on the northern escarpment stands Aloe eminens, an aloe that grows into a tree of eighteen metres and raises clusters of red flowers above the forest. A trail drops through the juniper to the Lamadaya falls, which plunge off the escarpment face, a rare sight of falling water in one of the driest corners of the Horn of Africa, with the plain and the sea beyond. The Boswellia frereana trees root straight into the bare limestone of the cliffs, and their resin, maydi, is the king of frankincense, mostly chewed rather than burned, tapped through the dry months by harvesters who cut the bark and return every few weeks over eight to twelve cycles to lift the hardened tears, each tear a wound the tree seals; a guide walks visitors out to the trees with a harvester onto the ledges. Herders bring their camels up onto the plateau for the cooler grazing along the same tracks, and the leopard and the Speke's gazelle survive in the forest. Somaliland is calm and unrecognised, and Erigavo is a long drive from Hargeisa. Cal Madow is a forest that lives on fog, and its trees weep the resin the Arabs buy.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Arrange the escort before you leave Hargeisa — the travel permit comes from the tourism ministry, the armed SPU officer rides with you, and the mountain tracks need a 4x4 with a driver who knows them.
  • Take the escarpment view in the first hours after sunrise — as the day warms, cloud climbs the wall from the coast and can swallow a thousand-metre panorama within minutes.
  • The rains turn the tracks to mud — they fall in April–June and October–November, while the plateau roads are at their driest and firmest from December through February.
  • The Warsangli linnet lives in this juniper and nowhere else on Earth — birders also come for the Somali thrush and golden-winged grosbeak; a guide who knows the forest counts for more than binoculars.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hike to Lamadaya waterfall

    Hike to Lamadaya waterfall

    A trail drops through juniper forest to where the Lamadaya falls plunge off the escarpment face — a rare sight of falling water in one of the driest corners of the Horn of Africa.

  2. 2

    Cross paths with the camel herds above Erigavo

    Cross paths with the camel herds above Erigavo

    Herders bring their camels up onto the plateau for the cooler highland grazing, moving them along the same tracks that lead out to the frankincense slopes. Meeting a herd on a mountain road, thousands of metres above the desert most people associate with camels, rearranges your picture of the country.

  3. 3

    Walk beneath ancient juniper and frankincense trees

    Walk beneath ancient juniper and frankincense trees

    Daallo forest is gnarled African juniper, boxwood and tree aloes with cloud drifting through the branches, and the tracks in are usually driven before they are walked. Off the track the ground is soft with needles and the light comes through grey rather than gold.

  4. 4

    Watch a frankincense harvester work the cliff trees

    In the tapping months a guide can walk you out to the trees with a harvester, up onto the ledges where the Boswellia root straight into bare limestone. He opens the bark with a blade called a mangaf, and the cut beads white within minutes. Ask for a piece of fresh maydi and chew it: sticky at first, then faintly of lemon.

Watch

Nearby

Laas Geel 292 km

Laas Geel

SomaliaSomaliland,Somalia
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