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Laas Geel

Laas Geel

CavesSomaliaSomaliland,Somalia
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A granite outcrop in Somaliland whose overhangs shelter about twenty alcoves of cattle painted five thousand years ago, their reds barely dimmed.

September·Quiet month

Jul–Oct

Through the Hagaa the plateau bakes hot and dusty, with a second burst of rain around August and September before the land dries again. The paintings sit unchanged under their overhangs, but haze softens the light and the heat is fierce; still nothing closes.


Year-round Some twenty granite alcoves of red-and-white cattle, sheltered from rain and sun and reachable year-round with a Ministry permit and an armed escort; around them the heat, the dust and the scrub shift.

Laas Geel is a granite outcrop in Somaliland, in the north of Somalia an hour from Hargeisa, whose overhangs shelter about twenty alcoves painted with cattle five thousand years ago, their reds, whites and ochres barely dimmed, the best-preserved rock art in Africa, and it is walked up to from the plain with a guard from the ministry and read at eye level under the ledges. The paintings were known to the nomads, who took the place for the home of spirits, and were put on the map only in 2002 by a French mission that had come to dig for graves and looked up; the cows are painted in profile with wide striped necks, the site's signature, which nobody can explain, a collar, a decoration or a marking of the hide, and their horns curve forward over udders drawn full, while between them stand much smaller human figures with arms flung wide, some carrying a stick or a bow, the herders of a people who kept cattle here when the plain was green. Under the main shelter the painted cattle sit right at eye level, close enough to touch, though the unwritten rule is that no one does. The art survives because of the rock's shape, an overhanging granite lip that has thrown off direct sun for five thousand years in a place where rain hardly falls, and because the nomads kept away. Climbing clear of the shelters, the plain opens below with two dry watercourses meeting at the foot of the granite, the reason for the name, which means the camels' well, and the reason the herders came. World Heritage status is granted to states, and Somaliland, independent in practice since 1991, is not recognised as one, so the finest rock art on the continent has no route onto the list and none of the funding that comes with it, and the shelters are guarded by a few men with a hut. Laas Geel is a herd painted under a rock, and the rock has kept it since before the pyramids.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • A Ministry of Tourism permit and an armed police escort are both required — arrange the pair in Hargeisa before you set out, then drive the 50 kilometres northeast up the Berbera road.
  • Go in the first hours after sunrise — angled light lifts the red-and-white striped necks out of the granite, and you climb the outcrop before the rock starts radiating heat.
  • November to March is the comfortable window — the Gu rains from April green the scrub but bring heat, cloud and a rougher final track in to the outcrop.
  • Keep to the worn path across the outcrop — the documented threat here is no longer sun but dust, kicked off bare ground by feet and settling on the pigment.
  • Carry your own water and shade — there is no shop, no café and no tree on the outcrop, and the granite gives back the day's heat by mid-morning.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Get eye-level with the herd and read each cow

    Get eye-level with the herd and read each cow

    Duck in under the main shelter's low ledge, where the painted cattle sit right at eye level, close enough to touch though the unwritten rule is that you never do. Move slowly along the panel and take the animals one at a time: each is marked a little differently, the detail that convinced archaeologists these were prized, tended beasts rather than hunted game. One alcove holds a frieze painted almost shoulder to shoulder from end to end, and standing under it with your head tilted back is as close as you get to the painters' own view.

  2. 2

    Find the herders among the herd

    Find the herders among the herd

    Scattered between the cattle are much smaller human figures, arms flung wide, some carrying a stick or a bow. They are easy to miss, dwarfed by the animals they kept — a reminder that the people who painted this were herders first, and that they drew themselves as the smaller party.

  3. 3

    Trace the granite ledge that saved the colours

    Trace the granite ledge that saved the colours

    The art survives because of the rock's shape: an overhanging granite lip that has thrown off direct sun for five thousand years, in a place where rain hardly ever falls anyway. Run your eye along the drip line and you can see exactly where the shelter ends — and where the paintings stop with it.

  4. 4

    Read the two riverbeds from the top of the outcrop

    Read the two riverbeds from the top of the outcrop

    Climb clear of the shelters and the plain opens out below, with two dry watercourses meeting at the foot of the granite. Water sits near the surface here even when the beds look empty, which is why herders have brought animals to this spot for millennia — and why the place is called the camel's well.

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