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Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi

PeaksEcuadorCotopaxi,Ecuador

An almost perfectly symmetrical glacier cone rising to 5,897 metres above the Ecuadorian highlands, still active, climbed from a refuge across páramo grazed by horses.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The main dry season: firm glacier snow and the clearest skies, when the full climbing season runs and August is the driest month of all. Strong winds are the trade-off — the real summit-killer here — so calm dawns are prized.


Year-round Cotopaxi's glacier cone and its rare ice on the equator stand over the high grassland every day of the year. The park and its refuge stay open in all seasons, though the volcano is active and can close the summit without warning.

Cotopaxi is a volcano of almost perfect symmetry rising 5,897 metres above the highlands of Ecuador, an hour south of Quito, capped with glaciers and still active, and it is climbed from a refuge on its flank across a high grassland grazed by wild horses. The cone is visible from the capital on a clear morning, a white triangle standing over the valley, and it is one of the highest active volcanoes on Earth; it erupted in 2015 and again in 2022, and the danger is not lava but the ice, since an eruption melts the glacier and sends floods of mud down the valleys, which is what destroyed the town of Latacunga three times. Andean peoples held the mountain holy long before the Inca reached these highlands, reading its eruptions as omens. The park around it is páramo, the wet high grassland of the northern Andes, and herds of wild horses graze the open ground at the volcano's feet, calm around passing visitors, with Andean gulls and ducks working the shallows of the Limpiopungo lagoon, a glacier-fed lake at 3,800 metres circled by a flat trail with the cone doubled in the water on a still day. The climb begins at the refuge. A rough track reaches a car park high on the flank at 4,600 metres, and from there a steep path of loose volcanic sand leads up to the José Ribas refuge at about 4,800, which is as far as most people go, to the edge of the ice with the plain below; the summit climbs leave the refuge around midnight, while the snow is frozen hard and the risk of falling ice is lowest, roped up on the glacier for six or seven hours to reach the crater rim at dawn, with the Andes spread out and, on a clear morning, the other volcanoes of the Avenue of the Volcanoes standing in a line. The climb needs no technical skill but does need a guide and acclimatisation. Cotopaxi is a mountain that looks drawn, and the people below it have never forgotten what it does.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Two dry windows give the clearest cone — June to September and December to January bring the steadiest skies, while the wetter months in between often keep the summit hidden behind cloud for days.
  • The cone hides itself by late morning — Cotopaxi tends to wrap in its own cloud as the day warms, so the first hours after dawn give the best odds of seeing the whole peak.
  • The park is an easy day trip from Quito — it lies about 50 km south, and ordinary cars reach the lower trails, though the rough track up to the refuge parking wants higher clearance.
  • Acclimatise before you go high — spend a few days around Quito first, and pack a windproof shell, warm layers and strong sun protection, because temperatures swing fast and the equatorial sun burns quickly at altitude.
  • Scan the rocky cliffs for condors — Andean condors ride the updrafts near the park's outcrops mostly at dawn and dusk, and are hardest to spot at midday when they soar too high to see.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ascend to the glacial summit

    Ascend to the glacial summit

    Climbs leave the José Ribas refuge at about 4,800 metres around midnight, while the snow is still frozen hard and the risk of falling ice is at its lowest. The rest of the night goes on crossing the glacier by headlamp, in crampons and roped to a guide, gaining the last thousand metres slowly because the air up here holds so little oxygen. Climbers reach the 5,897-metre summit at first light, and it takes several days of acclimatising in the highlands beforehand to have a real chance of getting there.

  2. 2

    Hike to the refuge in the paramo

    Hike to the refuge in the paramo

    A rough track climbs to a car park high on the volcano's flank, and from there a steep path of loose volcanic sand leads up to the José Ribas refuge at about 4,800 metres. The walk is short but hard, because the air at this height holds so little oxygen that most people stop to breathe every few minutes. The route crosses open páramo, the cold tussock grassland of the high Andes, and on clear days the clouds sit below you rather than overhead.

  3. 3

    Share the páramo with wild horses

    Share the páramo with wild horses

    Herds of wild horses graze the open grassland at Cotopaxi's feet, calm around passing visitors. Move quietly across the tussock, gold in the low light and dotted with spiky red chuquiraga, and you can watch them against the snow cone.

  4. 4

    Circle the Limpiopungo lagoon

    Circle the Limpiopungo lagoon

    Follow the flat trail that loops the glacier-fed Limpiopungo lagoon, where Andean gulls and ducks work the shallows. On a calm morning the cone stands doubled in the water, and the level path makes it the park's gentlest walk.

Watch

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