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El Nido

El Nido

IslandsPhilippinesPalawan,Philippines

A Palawan bay in the Philippines of forty-five limestone towers, hopped between by boat, several of them hiding lagoons you paddle into through a crack.

September·Quiet month

Jun–Oct

July and August are the wettest months, the season of the habagat. The coast guard calls off boats early each morning, and Tour C is the first to be cancelled. Dive shops and much of the town shut or go into renovation. The bay stays near 28°C and empty, and the rain eases by October.



Year-round The limestone towers, lagoons, coral reefs and grazing green turtles are there every day, and the sea stays near 27-30°C year-round. What changes is the wind, the water's clarity and which boats sail.

El Nido is a bay full of limestone islands with lagoons hidden inside them. More than 45 towers rise straight out of turquoise water at the northern tip of Palawan. Their cliffs are undercut at the waterline and pitted with caves, sinkholes and clefts narrow enough to swim through. Behind several of them lie sheets of still green water, walled in on every side. The town on the shore is named for the swiftlet nests up in those caves. All of it is protected water now — green turtles graze the seagrass, dolphins pass through the channels and coral gardens ring the reefs — so every visitor needs a permit before setting out. The way to see it is by water, gliding island to island aboard the wooden outrigger boats Filipinos call bangka. You paddle into the Big Lagoon, a wide sheet of green water walled by cliffs hundreds of feet high, then thread a kayak through a narrow cleft into the stiller Small Lagoon behind it. At Secret Beach you swim through a gap in the rock to reach a cove that stays hidden until you are inside it, and over the shallow reefs you drift above parrotfish and the occasional grazing turtle. Between stops there are white-sand beaches with almost no one on them, and at the end of the day the sun drops behind the towers and turns the water copper. It is not a secret anymore. The beaches fill in the dry months from December to May, when the sea lies calmest and clearest. But push off at first light, before the day boats spread out, and you can still have a lagoon almost to yourself.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Push off at first light — the day boats leave town around 9am and crowd the same lagoons, so an early or private start buys the Big Lagoon before the rush.
  • Tour A covers the two lagoons — the standard Big and Small Lagoon route; ask about a private or reverse-order boat if you want to reach them ahead of the group tours.
  • Carry the small conservation fee — a modest eco-tourism ticket (valid about ten days) is required for island hopping, with a separate charge to enter the Big and Small Lagoons.
  • Kayaking beats the motor — engines aren't allowed inside the Big Lagoon, so renting a kayak lets you paddle its full length; rentals sell out fast, so grab one early at busy times.
  • There is little shade on the boats — the tropical sun is fierce all day on open bangka decks, so bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard, water shoes for sharp rock, and a dry bag.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Set out on an island-hopping boat tour

    Set out on an island-hopping boat tour

    Spend the day gliding between islands aboard a wooden bangka, the standard way to reach the lagoons, caves and beaches scattered across Bacuit Bay. Most tours stop to snorkel over coral and lay out a grilled lunch on a quiet beach, and you rarely know which cove comes next.

  2. 2

    Paddle into the Big Lagoon and through to the Small

    Paddle into the Big Lagoon and through to the Small

    Trade the motorboat for a kayak and glide into the Big Lagoon, a wide sheet of jade-green water hemmed by limestone walls that climb straight from the surface. Engines aren't allowed inside, so the loudest sound is your own paddle and the drip off the blade. Behind it, a crack in the cliff just wide enough for a kayak opens into the Small Lagoon. Inside is a still, enclosed pool walled by rock and dripping vegetation, shallow enough to see straight to the sandy bottom.

  3. 3

    Swim and snorkel the reef coves

    Swim and snorkel the reef coves

    Slip off the boat into warm, clear water at one of the reef-ringed coves and float above the coral gardens. Parrotfish and clownfish work the shallows, and around Shimizu Island and Cadlao green sea turtles graze the seagrass close enough to watch.

  4. 4

    Wind down on the town beach

    Wind down on the town beach

    When the boats come back in, the long town beach is where El Nido slows down: bangkas pulled up on the sand, the water going glassy, and the limestone islands blackening into silhouettes. Stay for the sunset, which drops straight behind the towers offshore.

Watch

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