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Palawan Underground River

Palawan Underground River

CavesPhilippinesPalawan,Philippines
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A river in the Philippines paddled eight kilometres through the inside of a limestone mountain and out into the sea, through chambers sixty metres high.

September·Quiet month

Jun–Oct

The southwest monsoon takes over. Inside, the cave and its river are unchanged, but rough seas cancel the Sabang crossing on bad days, and the worst of it comes around September and October. Visitors are few and permits easy to get. The park closes 1–3 July.


Year-round The underground river runs through its cave year-round; the dry season, November to April, calms the sea crossing to the cave mouth, while monsoon swells can cancel boats.

The Puerto Princesa Underground River is a river on the island of Palawan in the Philippines that flows for eight kilometres through the inside of a limestone mountain and out into the sea, through chambers up to sixty metres high, and the first part of it is paddled in a canoe. The trip starts on the beach at Sabang, where narrow wooden outriggers carry small groups along the coast to a lagoon at the foot of the limestone cliffs; a boardwalk through the forest leads to the cave mouth, and on it big monitor lizards lie flat on the warm sand and long-tailed macaques work the branches overhead. Then you put on a hard hat and a life jacket and sit in a canoe that the boatman paddles alone. He holds the lamp too, so in the dark you see only the piece of rock he points it at: a chamber the size of a cathedral, a stalactite shaped like a saint, the roof crowded with bats and swiftlets that find their way in the blackness by clicking as they fly. The tourist route goes about a kilometre and a half in and turns back, and the river continues for six more that only researchers see. For its final kilometres it is barely fresh water at all: the tide pushes the sea so far into the mountain that salt water and river water lie layered one over the other, and the river's mouth opens straight onto the beach. In 2010 explorers found a second level hidden above the one everyone paddles, with its own small waterfalls, and the mountain above holds untouched forest from cave mouth to summit. The park around the river is one of the few places in the world where a river, a cave, a rainforest and a reef sit in one protected block. Daily numbers are capped, so the trip is planned rather than dropped into. The Underground River is a river you enter through the side of a mountain, and it goes on long after the lamp turns back.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • A permit is required, and entry is capped — under a strict no-permit-no-entry rule the park admits only about 900 visitors a day, which keeps the cave quiet.
  • Keep a hand on your hat and snacks at the entrance — the long-tailed macaques and metre-long monitor lizards around the boardwalk are bold and will grab anything loose.
  • The permit is arranged in town, not at the cave — book it in Puerto Princesa before you set out; the boat from Sabang stops running when the sea is up.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Paddle into the Underground River

    Paddle into the Underground River

    You go in wearing a hard hat and a life jacket, in a canoe the boatman paddles alone — he holds the lamp too, so you see only the piece of rock he points it at. Listen instead of looking: the clicking overhead is the swiftlets finding their way in the dark the same way the nine kinds of bat above them do. The standard run turns back after about 1.5 kilometres, and for much of it you are floating on a thin skin of fresh water lying over seawater that the tide pushes six kilometres into the mountain.

  2. 2

    Boat from Sabang

    Boat from Sabang

    Boats leave from the beach at Sabang, where narrow wooden outriggers carry small groups along the coast to the lagoon at the foot of the limestone cliffs. It is a short crossing in open water, with jungle-topped grey rock rising straight out of the sea the whole way, and you collect your park permit at Sabang before boarding. The turquoise cove where the boats tie up is walled in by jungle and grey limestone — an easy place to cool off and let your eyes readjust after the cave.

  3. 3

    Spot lizards and macaques at the cave mouth

    Spot lizards and macaques at the cave mouth

    On the boardwalk out to the entrance, big monitor lizards lie flat on the warm sand and long-tailed macaques work the branches overhead — the forest life that meets you before and after the dark of the cave.

Watch

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