Gosausee is 1.8 kilometres of still green water with the 2,995-metre Hoher Dachstein and its glaciers standing at the end of it, and the limestone teeth of the Gosaukamm closing the frame on the right. It is one of the most reliable mirrors in the Alps, and the loop around the shore is flat, about 4.5 kilometres, and takes an hour. Come early. Wind gets up as the day warms, so the reflection belongs to the first hours: the mountain doubled so cleanly that the join is hard to find, cold air sliding off the surface, spruce resin in it. Stay to the end of a clear day and you get the opposite — the lake sinks into shadow while the Dachstein's north-west face still burns red above it.
Every winter a power station drains much of the water away. The basin is genuine enough: Ice Age glaciers gouged it out, and underground springs at the far end still feed it. But in 1913 the Gosau valley scheme dammed the outlet and raised the water by about 12 metres, turning the lake into a reservoir. Through the winter, when electricity is worth most, the turbines draw it down. The depth falls from roughly 75 metres to 36, and wide grey gravel flats surface where the shoreline should be. Then the Dachstein snow melts, the lake fills, and the mirror comes back. Boats can be rented, divers come for water that clears as the reservoir fills, and a cable car climbs to the huts on the ridge. The ice at the head of the valley is going. The Great Gosau Glacier has lost more than half its area since the 1850s, its tongue has drawn back about 1.5 kilometres, and forecasts give it until roughly 2050.