Jebel Jais is the highest mountain in the United Arab Emirates, 1,934 metres in the Hajar range of Ras Al Khaimah on the Omani border, ten degrees cooler than the desert below and the only place in the country that sees frost, and it is driven up on a road of switchbacks to summit terraces and the launch platform of the longest zipline in the world. The pale limestone of the mountain began as lime mud on the floor of an ancient sea, and its layers still hold the fossils of marine creatures, lifted into a range of bare grey ridges that runs into Musandam; the road, opened in 2017, climbs from the plain in flawless asphalt, each hairpin opening a wider view over the stacked Hajar summits and the desert far below, and it ends at terraced viewpoints near the top from which the whole range fans out in grey-beige ridges to the horizon. The Jais Flight launches from a platform near the summit: clipped in head-first like a superhero, the rider covers 2.8 kilometres of open valley at up to 150 kilometres an hour, three minutes in the air over the drop.
The mountain is walked as well. Marked trails leave the road for the bare ridges, from short viewpoint loops to longer routes across the range, and a via ferrata of cables and ladders runs across the limestone faces with a guide, while a sledge run on rails drops through the switchbacks for those who want the speed without the height. From November to March the summit turns genuinely cold, with nights near or below freezing and frost on the sharpest mornings, and a few times a decade snow dusts the high ridges, the one taste of real winter in the Emirates, which brings the whole country up the road in a day. In summer the terraces are the coolest place to sit outdoors in the country. Jebel Jais is the roof of the Emirates, and it is the one roof with a winter.