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Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els

DesertsMongoliaÖmnögovi,Mongolia

A hundred-kilometre wall of sand in Mongolia's Gobi that booms low when a dry slope slides, and goes silent as soon as rain reaches it.

September·Edge of season

Sep

September is the sweet spot: the summer heat has broken, the meadow is still green, the sand still sings, and the August crowds have thinned. The yurt camps, though, begin closing as the nights turn cold.



Year-round The wall of sand and the nomadic families with their two-humped Bactrian camels are here year-round. What comes and goes is the green meadow, the tourist ger camps of round felt tents, the migrating birds and the rare snow.

Khongoryn Els sings, but only when the sand is bone dry. Break the crest of a slope with your foot and the little avalanche you set off makes the whole dune let out a low boom. It is one deep note somewhere between 70 and 105 hertz, closer to a propeller plane than to anything you expect sand to do. Mongolians call the place Duut Mankhan, the singing dunes. Rain, or even a heavy dew, is enough to shut it up, and the sound comes back only once the sun has baked the moisture out. The sand is piled into a wall about 100 kilometres long and up to 12 kilometres wide, its highest crests standing hundreds of metres over the gravel plain. Three landscapes meet in one frame along the northern edge. A thin stream, the Khongoryn Gol, holds a ribbon of meadow green against the gold, fed by water moving underground from the Sevrei and Zoolon ranges. The camels and horses of herding families graze on it while bare dark mountains close the view behind. Climbing the tallest crest is slow, thankless work: the slope gives way under every step, and there is no shade and no water on it. The ridge at the top is narrow enough to sit astride, with dune waves running to the horizon on one side and the herds reduced to specks on the other. Then you sit down, slide, and the dune answers you. Nomadic families still live at the sand's edge with their two-humped Bactrian camels and rent felt ger tents to travellers. The whole field covers some 965 square kilometres and has been protected since 1993 inside Gobi Gurvansaikhan, Mongolia's largest national park.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Climb in the last two hours of daylight — the sand has cooled by then, and the low sun cuts every ridge into a hard line of light and shadow that the midday glare flattens away.
  • Go up barefoot and carry more water than feels reasonable — shoes fill with sand in minutes, and there is no shade, no water and no shelter anywhere on the slope.
  • The camels carry you to the sand, not up it — Bactrian camels work the flat oasis strip at the foot, so the crest is a walk on your own legs however you arrive.
  • September is the sweet spot — the summer heat has broken, the meadow at the foot is still green, and the tourist camps have thinned out after the August peak.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride a Bactrian camel along the green strip

    Ride a Bactrian camel along the green strip

    The camels plod the oasis meadow between the ger camps and the base of the sand, at a pace that rocks you side to side, and the wall of dunes grows absurdly larger the whole way in. The strip is kept alive by the Khongoryn Gol, underground water off the mountains holding a ribbon of grass against 100 kilometres of desert. Waders pick along the stream, horses graze beside the camels, and you can put one boot on green turf and the other on sand.

  2. 2

    Make the dune boom under you

    Make the dune boom under you

    Grind your way to a high crest, sit down on the steep face and push off. The sand slides in a sheet beneath you and lets out a deep, carrying hum you feel in your chest as much as hear — the sound that gave the dunes their Mongolian name, Duut Mankhan.

  3. 3

    Watch the ridges sharpen to knife edges at dusk

    Watch the ridges sharpen to knife edges at dusk

    As the sun drops, the light comes in almost sideways and every crest divides into a lit face and a black one. The flat, glaring wall of the afternoon turns into a stack of sharp-edged curves, and the colour runs from pale gold through copper.

  4. 4

    Sleep in a ger at the foot of the sand

    Sleep in a ger at the foot of the sand

    Herding families at the dune's edge put up travellers in felt gers heated by a dung stove. You wake to camels being moved out to graze, and the sand wall standing over the camp exactly as it did at dusk, only lit from the other side.

Watch

Nearby

Orkhon Waterfall 335 km

Orkhon Waterfall

MongoliaÖvörkhangai,Mongolia
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