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Kulikalon Lakes

Kulikalon Lakes

LakesFann Mountains, Sughd Region, Tajikistan
August·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

The full season: passes clear, the loop over the Alaudin pass runs, and families' camps ring the far shore with goats, cattle and donkeys. Afternoons warm the shallows enough to swim — rare this high — though nights still drop toward freezing.



Year-round The lakes, the juniper woods and the Kulikalon Wall stand all year; snow shuts the basin from November to May.

Kulikalon has no outlet. No stream runs out of the basin's biggest lake — the water sinks into the wall of glacial rubble that dams it and resurfaces far below as the Artuch River. The lakes lie at 2,800 metres in a cirque on the northern flank of Tajikistan's Fann Mountains, fed by meltwater off the Chimtarga glacier. The name is plain-spoken: kuli kalon is Tajik for "big lake". Off the far shore stands the Kulikalon Wall — the north face of Mirali (5,106 m) and Maria — a rampart that Soviet mountaineers made one of Central Asia's serious big-wall arenas, worked from the Artuch alpine camp opened at 2,200 metres in the early 1970s. Around the shore grows something scarcer than the rock: the largest surviving stands of juniper forest in the western half of the Zeravshan Range. The climb from Artuch takes three to four hours through juniper and old moraine, and the basin arrives all at once — a wide sheet of water with a flat green island, bays cut deep into the northern shore, and the wall standing in the reflection. You will not have it to yourself. Each summer, families from the villages below bring goats, cattle and donkeys up to these pastures and pitch camp along the far shore; walk past and you are usually waved over for bread and tea. Himalayan snowcocks whistle on the scree at first light and wallcreepers work the cliffs — BirdLife International lists Kulikalon as an Important Bird Area on the strength of thirteen such species. The juniper is the frail part of it: Zeravshan archa has been cut hard for timber and firewood, and now survives mainly in high pockets like this one. Beyond Artuch nothing is serviced, and snow closes the basin from about November to May.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Everything starts at the Artuch alpine camp at 2,200 metres, reached by shared taxi from Panjakent — the lakes lie six kilometres and 600 metres of climbing above it.
  • Aim for late July to early September, when the passes are clear. Nights at 2,800 metres still drop close to freezing in high summer, so carry a proper sleeping bag.
  • Kulikalon is shallow enough to swim in, which is rare this high — the shallows warm through the afternoon, unlike the icy glacier-fed lakes over the Alaudin pass.
  • The near shore fills with tents in August. Walk twenty minutes round to the northern bays, where rock spurs cut the shoreline into private coves that most groups never reach.
  • Filter every drop you drink. Hundreds of animals graze the shoreline pastures all summer, so lake and stream water needs treating even where it runs clear over stones.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Trek in on the Artuch trail

    Trek in on the Artuch trail

    The lakes are reached on foot, not by road — a rocky trail climbs from Alplager Artuch through juniper scrub and moraine for three to four hours. Pack animals still carry gear for trekking groups along the same path used by Soviet-era climbers.

  2. 2

    Pitch a tent on the Kulikalon shore

    Pitch a tent on the Kulikalon shore

    Flat grassy patches beside the water make the finest wild camping in the Fanns, a few steps from the lake. As the sun drops behind the ridge, the granite face of the Kulikalon Wall loses its colour long before the water does, and the only sound left in the basin is the grazing herds.

  3. 3

    Detour to the twin Dushakha Lakes

    Detour to the twin Dushakha Lakes

    A short side trail leads to Dushakha, two connected turquoise pools tucked into a stonier, higher basin than the main lake. Fewer trekkers make the extra climb, so the shoreline is usually empty.

  4. 4

    Meet Fann Mountain herders

    Meet Fann Mountain herders

    Shepherds bring goats and cattle up to these high pastures every summer, following routes unchanged for generations. Sharing tea with a herding family is one of the easiest ways to learn the valley's unmarked trails.

  5. 5

    Scramble the ridge above Dushakha

    Scramble the ridge above Dushakha

    A steep pull above the twin pools gains a ridge looking straight down onto the lakes and across at the ice still lodged in the wall's shaded hollows. From up here the moraine dams read clearly, and you can see how the whole basin was assembled.

Nearby

Lake Iskanderkul 27 km

Lake Iskanderkul

Sughd

Registan 111 km

Registan

Samarkand

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