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Lake Togo & Aného

Lake Togo & Aného

LakesMaritime Region, Togo
August·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

Cold water wells up along the coast and the sea drops toward 25°C in August; sardinella shoal in and the beach-seine crews haul their fullest, heaviest nets of the year. Early September brings Epe Ekpe, the Guin new year, at Glidji north of Aného.



Year-round A shallow brackish lagoon barely a metre deep, poled standing up across to Togoville and its vodun shrines; seine crews work the surf beyond. It all runs every month, a fishing lagoon not a resort.

Lake Togo handed its name to an entire country. On 5 July 1884 the German explorer Gustav Nachtigal signed a treaty on its far shore with Mlapa III, chief of the lakeside village of Togoville, and the protectorate he declared became German Togoland; the republic still carries the village's name, and the village carries the lagoon's. The water is brackish and startlingly shallow, roughly a metre deep on average, some fifteen kilometres long and six across, held off the Atlantic by a sandbar barely a kilometre wide and draining east through the channel at Aného. Aného was the colony's first capital from 1885, until the Germans moved the administration on and settled at Lomé in 1897. Dugouts still cross from Agbodrafo, and the boatmen stand and pole them along rather than paddle, because in most of the lagoon the bottom is only a pole's length down. Coming towards Togoville you see its church spires first, raised by the Germans in 1910, and vodun shrines stand in the lanes behind the church. On the ocean side, the work happens on the beach itself. Twenty or thirty people take hold of one rope and walk a hand-woven seine in from the surf, an hour of hauling for a single shared catch, and the nets come up fullest between July and September when cold water rises off this coast. Late in the year, turtles crawl the same sand after dark to nest. That sand nearly went: the sea was taking five to twelve metres of shore a year here, and it swallowed the town's football pitch. New groynes and a rebuilt dune have stopped the retreat, the beach is wide again, and the football pitch is back.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Cross to Togoville soon after dawn — the lagoon lies like glass, the polers are already working, and you are back on the south shore before the midday heat drains the colour out of the water.
  • Pirogues leave from Agbodrafo, not Aného — settle the fare and the waiting time before you push off, and bring cash, because cards are close to useless outside Lomé.
  • Epe Ekpe, the Guin new year, falls in early September at Glidji just north of Aného — the priests set the date each year, so ask locally rather than booking blind.
  • Olive ridley and leatherback turtles nest on the sandbar from November to January — local monitors walk the beach at night; ask about joining them, and keep torches and camera flashes off the sand.
  • Do not swim off the ocean beach — the surf here drops onto a steep shore with a heavy undertow and there are no lifeguards. The lagoon side is the calm water.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take a place on the rope at a dawn net haul

    Take a place on the rope at a dawn net haul

    Twenty or thirty people — fishermen, wives, children, whoever is on the beach — take hold of one rope and walk a hand-woven seine in from the surf. It can take the better part of an hour, the catch is divided on the sand, and nobody will object if you pull. Ask before photographing faces up close.

  2. 2

    Cross to Togoville in a standing-poled pirogue

    Cross to Togoville in a standing-poled pirogue

    Dugouts push off from Agbodrafo and are poled, not paddled, across water rarely deeper than your chest. The far shore comes up slowly, twin spires first, and you land where the treaty that gave the country its name was signed in 1884.

  3. 3

    Nose into the mangrove creeks of the Mono delta

    Nose into the mangrove creeks of the Mono delta

    East of Aného the lagoon system frays into red-rooted mangrove channels, part of the Mono Transboundary Biosphere Reserve that Togo shares with Benin. A canoe fits where nothing else does, past crab burrows, herons and the fish nurseries the whole coast's catch depends on.

  4. 4

    Walk the palm sandbar between the lagoon and the Atlantic

    Walk the palm sandbar between the lagoon and the Atlantic

    The strip of sand separating Lake Togo from the ocean narrows to about a kilometre, coconut palms leaning over both shores at once. Walk it and you have surf breaking on one side, flat lagoon water on the other, and men mending nets in the shade between them.

  5. 5

    Watch a lone caster work the lagoon shallows

    Watch a lone caster work the lagoon shallows

    Away from the beach crews, a single fisherman wades out into the lagoon and throws a circular hand net, drawing it shut in one motion. It is a different rhythm from the communal haul — quiet, unhurried, repeated dozens of times for a dinner's worth of fish.

Watch

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