Las Coloradas is a salt factory that happens to be pink. Seawater is drawn out of the Ría Lagartos estuary and pushed through a 20-kilometre chain of shallow ponds behind the coastal dikes. As the Yucatán sun evaporates each one, the brine grows too salty for almost anything to live in. One organism manages it: a green alga called Dunaliella salina, which under that much salt loads itself with beta-carotene, the red-orange pigment of carrots. Salt-loving archaea add a red of their own. So the colour is a salinity gauge. The younger ponds sit green or amber, while the basins nearest the refinery, where the brine is heaviest, burn deep fuchsia.
You see it on foot, with a guide, from a causeway of packed salt: fuchsia water on one side, the turquoise Gulf on the other, a few metres apart. The air carries a mineral, low-tide smell, and trucks work the far banks. You are walking through a factory in the middle of its working day. ISYSA has worked these pans since the 1940s and takes some 750,000 tonnes of salt a year, second in Mexico only to Guerrero Negro. The same ponds feed the reserve's flamingos, which filter the brine shrimp that graze the algae. All of it is private land. After the lakes went viral and visitors began bathing in them, the company shut the water. Swimming has been banned since 2017, drones are barred, and the ponds are seen only from marked paths on one of three guided routes.