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Jerónimos Monastery

Jerónimos Monastery

Lisbon City Guide
Church · BelémLisbon, Portugal

Manuel I ordered the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in 1501 and paid for it with a five per cent tax on commerce from Africa and the East — with the pepper, cinnamon and clove duties reserved to the crown. The result is the clearest example of the Manueline style, the Portuguese version of late Gothic that decorated buildings with the imagery of seafaring and trade. Ropes, knots, coral, artichokes, sea monsters and armillary spheres are carved all over the pale Lioz limestone, so the maritime economy that paid for the monastery is spelled out across its walls. It stands where Vasco da Gama and his crew spent the night before sailing in 1497; he lies in a tomb inside the west door, opposite the poet Camões, though both tombs were installed in the nineteenth century and there is doubt about whose bones are in them. The cloister is the reason to come. Two storeys of stone tracery run around a square courtyard, and almost no two arches are carved alike, so an hour spent walking it slowly is the right way to use the building. In the church, columns rise like palms and fan into a single vault so wide it has no visible support at the centre. That vault stood through the earthquake of 1755 while most of the lower city fell.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The cloister repays a second lap — the carving changes as you go round and almost nothing repeats, so the first circuit is orientation and the second is the visit.
  • Read the vault, not the floor — the nave columns fan into one continuous web of ribs with no central support, which is exactly what held when the ground moved in 1755.
  • Both famous tombs are nineteenth-century — da Gama and Camões were installed here in 1880, and whether the remains are theirs has never been settled.
  • Morning gets the cloister — the upper gallery takes early sun on the carving, and by afternoon half the square is in its own shadow.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk the cloister twice

    Walk the cloister twice

    Go round once at normal pace to see the shape of it, then again slowly along the lower gallery. The tracery changes panel by panel — ropes, plants, animals, instruments — and the second circuit is when you start noticing that the carvers were competing with each other.

  2. 2

    Stand under the crossing

    Stand under the crossing

    In the church, put yourself at the centre of the transept and look up. The vault spans the whole width without a pier in the middle, held by a net of ribs that reads as decoration and is doing the structural work. It is the reason the church survived the earthquake.

  3. 3

    Open the door to the refectory

    Open the door to the refectory

    Off the cloister, one long vaulted room is lined to the ceiling in tiles laid in the 1780s: the miracle of the loaves and fishes across the end wall, and the story of Joseph in Egypt running the length of both sides in blue, yellow and green. It is the only room in the monastery that is a single unbroken picture, and most visitors walk the cloister and leave without finding it.

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