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São Jorge Castle

São Jorge Castle

Lisbon City Guide
Palace · CasteloLisbon, Portugal

The hill has been fortified since at least the second century BC, but the walls you walk are largely Islamic-period work of the tenth and eleventh centuries, when the city was ruled from Badajoz as one of the small Muslim kingdoms, called taifas, that divided Iberia at the time. In 1147 Afonso Henriques laid siege to the fortress with an army that included a crusader fleet stopping on its way to the eastern Mediterranean. The defenders surrendered that October, about four months later. The castle then served as a royal palace from 1255 into the early sixteenth century, then declined into barracks and ruin, and what stands today is heavily reconstructed — towers and a curtain wall rebuilt in the twentieth century over what remained. Inside the walls it is a garden as much as a fortress: olives and pines, peacocks that have the run of the place, and an excavated site where the Alcáçova palace stood. The reason everyone climbs up is the outer terrace. Alfama's roofs fall away below toward the water, the Baixa's grid sits square in the middle distance, and the Tagus runs wide and silver with the bridge across it. It is the one point where the whole shape of Lisbon is legible at once.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The castle is named after England’s patron saint — John I dedicated it to Saint George in the late fourteenth century, after marrying Philippa of Lancaster; the dragon-slaying warrior saint was popular in both countries and the dedication was a piece of diplomacy.
  • The last hour of daylight — low sun comes in from the west across the roofs and turns Alfama copper, and the crowd thins as the light gets good.
  • The peacocks are residents — they have run of the grounds, they are loud, and they will approach a table without hesitation.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take the outer terrace at golden hour

    Take the outer terrace at golden hour

    Find the open ground just inside the main gate and stay for the last hour. Alfama goes copper, then rose, then dark; the river holds light longer than the roofs do; and the whole grid of the lower town resolves below you in a way it never does from street level.

  2. 2

    Sit through the camera obscura

    Sit through the camera obscura

    A guide takes a small group into a dark room in one of the towers and turns a periscope, and the living city appears on a white bowl in the middle — traffic moving, laundry shifting, gulls crossing. It runs in a short window around the middle of the day, depends on the weather and takes twenty people at a time, so it does not combine with a golden-hour visit.

  3. 3

    Walk the wall circuit

    Walk the wall circuit

    Eleven towers ring the inner castle and a rampart walk joins them, so the whole perimeter can be done on top of the wall — worn steps up, parapets narrow enough to touch both sides, doorways built for shorter people, and arrow slits that frame a different piece of the city each time. Most people take the terrace and never go up here.

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