Reine is a cluster of red fishermen's cabins standing on stilts over the water, ringed by granite peaks that rise straight out of an Arctic fjord. It sits on a scatter of islets near the tip of the Lofoten archipelago, on the island of Moskenesøya. That combination of deep red timber against grey rock and black-green water is why a Norwegian weekly named it the most beautiful village in the country in the late 1970s. The crowds have not stopped arriving since. The cabins are rorbuer, built for fishermen who slept over the water through the cod season. For nearly three centuries Reine lived on a single fish: the skrei, the Northeast Arctic cod that comes down from the Barents Sea each winter to spawn off these shores.
The village sits above the Arctic Circle, so its light swings between extremes. The sun never sets from late May to mid-July, while five weeks around midwinter pass without it rising, leaving the dark sky to the northern lights. The classic view is from Reinebringen, the peak behind the village. A stone stairway of nearly 2,000 steps, laid by Nepalese Sherpas between 2016 and 2021, climbs 448 metres to a ledge. From there the whole tangle of islets, cabins and water opens beneath you. At sea level, kayaks and red canoes slip across a fjord that often lies mirror-still, doubling the mountains. Wander the ochre-yellow houses of neighbouring Sakrisøy or the red cabins of Hamnøy and you cross a place caught between two lives. Most rorbuer now rent to visitors, and boats leave the harbour for the fjord's beauty rather than its cod.