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Makgadikgadi Pans

Makgadikgadi Pans

DesertsBotswanaCentral,Botswana

The salt floor of a vanished inland sea in Botswana, 16,000 square kilometres flat enough to show the earth's curve, baobabs on one granite island.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Nov

The pans are at their emptiest and most punishing: shadeless glare and October heat topping 45°C, with nowhere to sit out the middle of the day. Zebra still hold the Boteti into October, then the crust waits, drivable, until the rains return around December.



Year-round Kubu Island's baobabs, the white crust and the meerkat clans are here all year; the flood, the flamingos and the herds are not.

The Makgadikgadi Pans are the salt floor of a vanished inland sea in the Central district of Botswana, 16,000 square kilometres of white crust flat enough to show the curve of the Earth, with a granite island of ancient baobabs standing out of them, and they are crossed by quad bike, slept on under an empty horizon and visited for the zebra migration and the meerkats at their edge. The lake that filled this basin was one of the largest in Africa, and a study of 2019 argued that every living human descends from a population that lived in the wetland it left behind 200,000 years ago; Kubu Island is a granite ridge a kilometre long lifting ten metres out of the salt, with old baobabs gripping the rock, low dry-stone walls and cairns along its spine, and on its windward side the granite polished smooth above terraces of rounded pebbles, a fossil beach, the old shoreline of the lake. Beyond the last baobab the crust runs featureless to the horizon, and the guided quad bikes head far out onto it, where the ground crunches like packed snow and the bedrolls go straight down onto the salt at night, with nothing to pitch against. Chapman's Baobab, 25 metres around, was the post office of the explorers, who left letters in its hollow for the next wagon to carry on, and its six fused stems lie where they came down in 2016, walked around at ground level. Habituated meerkat clans near the pan's edge let visitors sit at eye level while a lookout stands sentry, and when the pans dry out the zebra migration falls back on the Boteti river, the only open water for miles, returning to the mineral-rich grass at the pans' edge with the first rains; flamingos nest on Sowa Pan only in a wet year, when the rain floods it deep enough. The dry-season sky holds the Milky Way over an empty rim. Makgadikgadi is a sea that became salt, and the horizon is the only thing on it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Never take the crust for granted — soft brine mud sits under a dry-looking surface and swallows wheels, and there is no landmark to steer by. Travel with a guide or a second vehicle.
  • Go out at first and last light — midday on the pan is shadeless glare that flattens everything, while at dawn and dusk the white crust picks up pink and gold and the heat lets go.
  • Check the moon before booking a night out — a full moon is bright enough to walk the crust without a torch, but it drowns the stars in an otherwise unpolluted sky.
  • Kubu Island is a national monument and a sacred place — camping is booked through the community trust that manages it, and the stone walls, cairns and old tools stay exactly where they lie.
  • Carry your own water, fuel and shade — there is no supply and no phone signal out on the pans, and dry-season nights drop close to freezing however hot the day was.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Stand among Kubu Island's ancient baobabs

    Stand among Kubu Island's ancient baobabs

    Kubu is a granite ridge a kilometre long, lifting ten metres out of the white salt, with old baobabs gripping the rock and low dry-stone walls and cairns running along its spine. Come at last light, when the stone turns orange and the pan around it goes pink.

  2. 2

    Climb over the fallen Chapman's Baobab

    Climb over the fallen Chapman's Baobab

    The six fused stems lie where they came down, so you can walk the whole ring of the trunk at ground level and climb onto the toppled wood. What stood for centuries as the only landmark on the Ntwetwe crossing is now something you look down on.

  3. 3

    Walk or quad-bike the open pan

    Walk or quad-bike the open pan

    Beyond the last baobab the crust runs flat and featureless to the horizon; guided quad-bikes head far out onto it, where the ground crunches underfoot like packed snow. Guides switch the engines off out there, and because there is no hill, tree or building anywhere for sound to bounce off, the silence is total.

  4. 4

    Meet the meerkat sentinels

    Meet the meerkat sentinels

    Habituated meerkat clans near the pan's edge let visitors sit at eye level while a lookout stands sentry on hind legs. Early morning, before the colony disperses to forage, is the best time to visit.

  5. 5

    Sleep out on the bare crust

    Sleep out on the bare crust

    There is nothing on the pan to pitch a tent against and nothing solid to peg into, so bedrolls go straight down onto the salt. You lie at ground level with an unbroken horizon all the way round you, and there is no shade anywhere once the sun comes back up.

  6. 6

    Meet the zebra herds on the Boteti River

    Meet the zebra herds on the Boteti River

    When the pans dry out, the migration falls back on the Boteti, the only open water for miles. Thousands of zebra file down the steep banks to drink while lions work the treeline, and from July to October the river is the busiest place in the park.

Watch

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