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Matobo Hills

Matobo Hills

PeaksZimbabweMatabeleland South,Zimbabwe

Two-billion-year-old granite domes and balancing boulders in Zimbabwe, painted by San hunters, petitioned for rain, and holding the densest black eagle population known.

September·Peaking now

Apr–Sep

The dry winter is Matobo at its fullest: the thinning bush pushes rhino tracking past 90%. Days reach 21-23°C, dawns near 5°C in June-July.



Year-round Granite domes, balancing rocks, over 3,000 painted rock-art sites, Rhodes's grave and tracked black and white rhino are here every day; the seasons swing the light, the rains and the eagles' breeding cycle.

The Matobo Hills are a landscape of granite domes and balancing boulders two billion years old in Matabeleland South, in Zimbabwe, south of Bulawayo, painted by San hunters in overhangs across thousands of years, petitioned for rain at the most powerful shrine in the country, and holding the densest population of black eagles known anywhere, and they are walked among rhino on foot and climbed for the view from the grave of Cecil Rhodes. The domes are whalebacks of bare granite called dwalas, and the balancing rocks on them were not stacked from above but weathered out of the ground, since the granite cracked into blocks below the surface and the soil washed away, leaving the rounded boulders piled as they were; the caves and overhangs carry the finest rock art in southern Africa, with the curved overhang at Silozwane covered in giraffe, kudu and rows of elongated human figures in red ochre layered over each other by San painters across generations. At Njelele, the rain shrine of the Mwari cult, the petitioners do not read an answer in the rock but hear a voice from it, and the shrine is closed to outsiders. The rangers of the national park track rhino on foot, reading spoor and dung through the scrub until the group is a few dozen metres from grazing black or white rhino and signals everyone to stand still, one of the few places in Africa where this is done. Verreaux's eagles hunt the granite by surprise, sweeping low around a dome so the dassies on the far side never see them, and the pairs lay on the ledges from late April and fly their chicks by September. A staircase cut into bare granite climbs Malindidzimu, the hill of the spirits, to a summit ringed by balancing boulders where Rhodes had himself buried in 1902, with the kopjes running to the horizon on every side and a view he called the world's. Matobo is a country of stone eggs, and the eagles, the painters and the rainmakers have all used it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Park gates close at 6pm — the granite only glows in the last hour of light, so make the climb up World's View around half past four and leave yourself time to drive out.
  • Book the rhino walk a day ahead — groups are kept deliberately small, and sightings are far more reliable from May to October, once the dry season thins the bush out.
  • The finest painted caves sit outside the national park — Silozwane lies in communal land, where a village guide joins you near the school, so give the caves and the park a full day between them.
  • The bare domes are polished, slippery granite — wear shoes that grip for the scramble, and carry water: there is no shade and no tap once you are up on the rock.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Track rhino on foot

    Track rhino on foot

    Rangers read spoor and dung through the scrub until the group is a few dozen metres from grazing black or white rhino, then signal everyone to stop and stand still. Walking up to an animal this size with nothing between you and it is the park's signature hour.

  2. 2

    Read the painted panel at Silozwane

    Read the painted panel at Silozwane

    A curved granite overhang carries giraffe, kudu and rows of elongated human figures in red ochre, layered over each other by San painters across generations. A guide from the village walks you up and points out the figures your eye slides past.

  3. 3

    Ride out a summer storm on an open dwala

    Ride out a summer storm on an open dwala

    In the summer rains, climb onto one of the bare whaleback dwalas early and settle in facing the open hills. A thunderhead builds as a grey column on the horizon and takes the better part of an hour to reach you. Start back down before it does: the polished granite turns treacherous once it is wet.

  4. 4

    Find a black eagle riding the dome updraughts

    Find a black eagle riding the dome updraughts

    Verreaux's eagles hunt the granite by surprise, sweeping low around a dome so the dassies on the far side never see them coming. Sit above a valley with binoculars in the middle of the day and the pair that owns it will usually appear along the rock face.

  5. 5

    Climb Malindidzimu to Rhodes' grave

    Climb Malindidzimu to Rhodes' grave

    A staircase cut into bare granite leads to a summit ringed by balancing boulders, with kopjes running to the horizon on every side. Cecil Rhodes chose the spot for his own burial in 1902; Malindidzimu is a hill of ancestral spirits, and Zimbabweans have argued for decades that he should not lie there. The best known of those balanced stacks stands elsewhere in the hills: the Mother and Child, which reads from the road as a tall figure holding a smaller one. Get close and its top boulder turns out to rest on a patch of rock you could cover with both hands.

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