Nevis Peak is the volcano of 985 metres that is most of the island of Nevis, in Saint Kitts and Nevis in the eastern Caribbean, a single cone wearing a cap of cloud that Columbus is said to have mistaken for snow and named the island for, climbed on fixed ropes through mud and roots to a cloud forest summit, with a hot spring at its foot and a long beach at its back. The volcano has no eruption in recorded history, but in 1953 a patch of ground near the coast at Cades Bay began to steam and has vented since, and the mineral water that leaves the mountain at around 42 degrees fills the stone bath at Bath, below the eastern slope, hot enough to redden the skin in minutes, beside the ruin of the Bath Hotel of 1778, generally called the first hotel in the Caribbean and gutted by fire in 2022. The climb is four to five hours of mud, roots and ropes with a guide, into forest that drips and darkens as it rises, and the top is a small grassy clearing rather than a rock peak, with St Kitts appearing across the channel only when the cloud parts.
The island's life is on the lower slopes. Pinney's Beach runs for miles of soft sand and sea grapes along the west coast with the cone at its back and St Kitts low across the water, long stretches holding nothing but footprints, and the botanical gardens sit directly below the peak with lily ponds, palm groves and a conservatory that recreates the cloud forest growing higher on the same mountain. The green vervet monkeys that raid the gardens and cross the trail are not native but African, brought by the French in the seventeenth century, and from June to October hawksbill, green and leatherback turtles come ashore to nest on the dark-sand beaches around the volcano's base. Nevis Peak is an island that is one mountain, and the cloud on it fooled a navigator.