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Soufrière Hills Volcano

Soufrière Hills Volcano

PeaksPlymouth Exclusion Zone, Montserrat
August·Quiet month

Jul–Dec

The wet, storm-prone half: the dome can sit inside cloud for days, while heavy rain sends grey lahars down the Belham Valley — the only route into Plymouth — cancelling tours at short notice. The green north stays lush; the buried city waits.



Year-round The steaming dome, the grey ash fans and the roofs of buried Plymouth stand here every day; only whether cloud lets you see them, and rain lets you reach them, changes with the season.

Soufrière Hills woke in July 1995 after roughly 350 years of quiet and spent the next two years burying the town at its foot. Plymouth, Montserrat's port capital, was evacuated, then smothered by pyroclastic flows and mud until parts of it lay under some twelve metres of hardened grey deposit. It is still, on paper, the island's capital — the only ghost town in the world that holds the title. The flows destroyed the airport and killed nineteen people on 25 June 1997, and about two-thirds of Montserrat's people left for good. The volcano grew as it destroyed: lava heaping into a dome lifted the summit from 915 to roughly 1,050 metres, and the whole southern half of the island became a sealed exclusion zone. No new lava has emerged since February 2010, and the Montserrat Volcano Observatory, which watches the mountain around the clock, now holds it at the lowest hazard level; steam still leaks from the dome. From the lookouts on Jack Boy Hill and Garibaldi Hill you see an island cut in half — rainforest and villages in the north, and to the south a grey fan of ash sloping into very blue water, with roofs and a church tower breaking the surface where streets once ran. With a police permit and a certified guide in radio contact with the observatory, you can spend an hour inside Plymouth itself, walking at what used to be rooftop height. The mountain has not finished with the island: every wet season, heavy rain strips loose ash off the upper slopes and sends grey mudflows down the Belham Valley, rewriting the ground below.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Plymouth can be entered, but never on your own — a police permit and a certified guide in radio contact with the observatory are required, and tour operators arrange the paperwork.
  • Look at the dome early — the summit is clearest in the first hours after sunrise, and trade-wind cloud usually caps it by late morning, even in the driest months.
  • The two lookouts face different halves of the disaster — Jack Boy Hill looks over the buried old airport on the east coast, Garibaldi Hill down onto Plymouth.
  • The Belham Valley crossing is the weak link — it is the route into the exclusion zone, and mudflows or heavy rain can shut it and cancel tours at short notice.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Watch the dome steam from Jack Boy Hill

    Watch the dome steam from Jack Boy Hill

    A landscaped platform with a mounted telescope looks straight down the volcano's eastern flank, over the grey delta that swallowed the old airport at Trants. Steam drifts off the dome on most clear mornings, and the silence up here is the strangest part.

  2. 2

    Walk into Plymouth on a police permit

    Walk into Plymouth on a police permit

    With a permit, a certified guide and a radio line to the volcano observatory, you get roughly an hour inside the buried capital. You walk on hardened ash at what used to be roof height, past shopfronts filled to their ceilings and a church tower standing in grey mud.

  3. 3

    See the crater itself from the air

    See the crater itself from the air

    The summit is permanently off limits on foot, so the only way to look into the dome is from above. From the air the scoured flanks, the gullies cut by pyroclastic flows and the pale gas still seeping from the rock resolve into one live, working machine.

  4. 4

    Find the abandoned villages above Plymouth

    Find the abandoned villages above Plymouth

    Not everything in the exclusion zone is buried. On the slopes above the capital whole neighbourhoods simply stand there, roofs gone and walls open, with the bush climbing back through the windows — emptied in the evacuations of 1995 and 1996, and never reoccupied.

  5. 5

    Cross into the green half of the island

    Cross into the green half of the island

    A few kilometres north of the dead zone, Montserrat is a normal Caribbean island again: rainforest in the Centre Hills, black-sand bays, and around 4,000 people getting on with life. The contrast, crossed in twenty minutes, is the thing you remember.

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