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Osorno Volcano & Petrohué Falls

Osorno Volcano & Petrohué Falls

PeaksChileLos Lagos,Chile

A near-perfect snow cone standing 2,652 metres between two Chilean lakes, doubled in the water, with boardwalks over the chutes its own lava carved.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

Snow settles on the flanks and the Volcán Osorno centre opens its lifts for skiing. The cone is at its whitest. Bright days stay few, so come for the slopes rather than the reflection. The falls, the park and the daily Cruce Andino crossing all run right through.


Year-round The snow-capped cone, its two lakes and the basalt falls are here year-round. The southern summer, December to March, brings the settled, mirror-still days.

Osorno is a volcano of near-perfect symmetry standing 2,652 metres between two lakes in the Los Lagos region of southern Chile, capped with ice and doubled in the water on a windless morning, and at its foot the Petrohué River pours through chutes that the volcano's own lava carved, crossed on boardwalks through the forest. The cone is the picture of the Chilean lake district: from the shore at Ensenada, on Lake Llanquihue, it stands directly across the water like Fuji, and from the ski base on its flank a covered chairlift rises over slopes of black scoria and old snow to a lookout with both lakes and the volcanoes of the south in view. Above the lifts the mountain turns to bare glacier, and the crater is reached only with a guide, roped and in crampons, a long day on the ice. Charles Darwin, sailing with the Beagle, watched Osorno erupt at night in January 1835, and weeks later a huge earthquake levelled Concepción to the north; the volcano has been quiet since 1869. The falls are the lava's work. An old flow from Osorno crossed the Petrohué and hardened into black basalt, and the river has cut through it into a maze of chutes and channels where the turquoise water, coloured by glacial flour from the lake above, races over the dark rock in a dozen falls at once; wooden walkways thread through the forest to overlooks above the water, with the cone standing over the whole scene. Behind the falls lies Todos los Santos, the emerald lake, with no road ever cut along it: a catamaran crosses its green length from Petrohué to Peulla, a settlement at the far end reached only by water, under the volcanoes of Osorno and Puntiagudo, and the same route carries on over the Andes to Argentina by lake and bus. Osorno is a volcano with a lake on either side, and the river between them is running over what the mountain threw down.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come early for the cone — Osorno often wraps itself in cloud by midday, so the symmetrical snow peak shows clearest just after dawn on a settled, windless morning.
  • The falls change colour with the weather — the Petrohué runs its brightest glacial green on clear, low-water days and turns grey and silt-heavy after heavy mountain rain.
  • Pack rain gear whatever the forecast — this is Valdivian rainforest and heavy showers sweep in fast, even across the clearer summer months from December to March.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride the chairlift up Osorno's slopes

    Ride the chairlift up Osorno's slopes

    Board the covered chairlift above the ski base and rise over slopes of black scoria and old snow. It runs to a platform well below the ice cap, where the marked walking ends for anyone without rope and crampons. From up there the two lakes lie on either side of the cone, one green, one deep blue.

  2. 2

    Walk the boardwalks over the Petrohué chutes

    Walk the boardwalks over the Petrohué chutes

    Wooden walkways thread through the forest to a string of overlooks above the falls. The two banks are different rock: the river cuts through an old Osorno lava flow, while the steep left bank is granodiorite, the coarse granite-like rock the volcano was built on. The roar drowns out conversation and cold spray drifts over the rail.

  3. 3

    Climb the ice cap to Osorno's crater

    Above the ski slopes Osorno turns to bare glacier, and the summit is reached only with a guide, roped and in crampons. The climb takes around six hours up, on snow that steepens the whole way to the crater rim. From the top, Llanquihue and Todos los Santos lie on either side of the cone.

  4. 4

    Catch Osorno's cone doubled in the lake

    Catch Osorno's cone doubled in the lake

    From the shore at Ensenada the cone stands directly across the water and doubles in it on a windless morning. Llanquihue is big enough that a breeze from any direction breaks the image, so the still hour after dawn is the reliable one. Black volcanic sand runs along this stretch of shore, left by the flows that reached the lake.

  5. 5

    Cross Todos los Santos toward the Andes

    Cross Todos los Santos toward the Andes

    Board a catamaran at Petrohué and cross the green length of Todos los Santos to Peulla, the settlement at the far end that no road reaches. Osorno stands behind you most of the way and Tronador ahead, and the shore on either side is forest too steep to walk. This is the first leg of the old lake-and-road crossing to Bariloche in Argentina.

Watch

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