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Pangong Tso

Pangong Tso

LakesIndiaLadakh,India

A salt lake 134 kilometres long in Indian Ladakh's high desert, split by a contested border, shifting through every blue and freezing solid each winter.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

Open water at last, running navy to turquoise as the sun swings; ruddy shelducks breed along the shore, and with no town for miles the Milky Way arches over the camps at night.



Year-round Year-round this is a 134km salt lake at 4,225m, hemmed by bare rust-coloured mountains and split by the Line of Actual Control; it has no outlet, and every shore of it needs a permit.

Pangong Tso is a salt lake 134 kilometres long in the high desert of Ladakh, in northern India, at about 4,250 metres, and it changes colour through the day from pale turquoise to a deep, almost black blue, with nothing on its shores but bare brown mountains and a few tents. The colour is nearly pure optics: with almost no plankton or silt to cloud it, the shade you see depends on the sun's angle, the depth and the sky it mirrors. The lake has nowhere to drain. It once emptied into the Indus and was cut off long ago, so the salts carried in by mountain streams stay behind, and nothing lives in the water but small crustaceans; the birds that come in summer work the boggy ground where the meltwater streams arrive. Less than half of the lake is in India; the rest stretches east across a contested border into Chinese-held territory, and the line runs through the water. The road from Leh crosses the Chang La, a pass flanked by glaciers and high enough to leave you short of breath at the tea stall on top, then drops through bare valleys to the shore near Spangmik. Tented camps line the lake there, canvas over a frame and most of them unheated, pushed back from the water since camping on the bank was banned in 2018. The Changpa herders who live here keep ponies at the viewpoints for rides along the water's edge, and behind the beach their animals graze: the big shaggy ones are yaks, and the smaller herds threading between them are changra goats, whose winter undercoat is combed out for pashmina. At night, far from any town, the Milky Way arches over the still water. In winter the lake seals over despite its salt: ice forms from late December, thickens through January, and by late February is firm enough that a marathon is run on it. Pangong Tso became famous from the last scene of a Bollywood film, and the crowds it brought have not changed the colour of the water.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Give yourself two nights in Leh first — the lake sits above 4,000 metres, where the thin air brings headaches and nausea, so climb slowly, drink far more water than feels natural, and skip alcohol.
  • The blues run deepest around midday — the water only takes its richest turquoise when the sun is high and hits it straight on, so a flat grey morning is no measure of the lake.
  • Everyone needs a permit to reach the shore — Indians an Inner Line Permit, foreigners a Protected Area Permit, since the lake lies in a sensitive zone straddling the contested India–China border.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride a pony at the water's edge

    Ride a pony at the water's edge

    Local Changpa handlers keep ponies at the main viewpoints. A slow ride along the gravel shore puts the turquoise water on one side and bare mountains on the other. It also saves your legs at an altitude where even walking on the flat leaves most visitors short of breath.

  2. 2

    Pick out the pashmina goats among the yaks

    Pick out the pashmina goats among the yaks

    Behind the beach the big shaggy animals are yaks, but the smaller herds threading between them are changra goats. Their undercoat runs eleven to sixteen microns, finer than any commercial cashmere, because the plateau swings between minus forty and plus thirty-five degrees. It is combed out by hand each spring rather than shorn, and the Changpa who own these herds supply most of India's pashmina.

  3. 3

    Sleep in a tent camp by the water

    Sleep in a tent camp by the water

    Clusters of tented camps line the shore near Spangmik and Man — canvas over a frame, and most of them unheated. Camp generators usually run from about seven to eleven in the evening, and after that there is no light and no charging. Nights drop below freezing even in July, so the kit that matters is a hot water bottle and every blanket the camp can find.

  4. 4

    Cross the Chang La pass to the lake

    Cross the Chang La pass to the lake

    The approach from Leh tops out on the Chang La, a glacier-flanked pass high enough to leave you short of breath at the tea stall on top, then unwinds down bare valleys to the lake. The road itself is the reason many travellers rate the journey over the destination.

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