K2 rises 8,611 metres on the Pakistan-China border, the second-highest mountain on Earth and, by most climbers' reckoning, the most dangerous of the world's fourteen 8,000-metre giants. Historically about one climber died for every four who reached the summit; fixed ropes and commercial expeditions have since cut that closer to one in ten, yet K2 has never been tamed the way Everest has. Reaching its foot means a trek up the Baltoro Glacier, at 63 kilometres the fifth-longest outside the polar regions, ending at Concordia — the wide, boulder-strewn junction where the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen glaciers meet ringed by four of the fourteen highest peaks on the planet. The climber and photographer Galen Rowell called this the "Throne Room of the Mountain Gods" in 1977, and the name stuck.
Getting to Concordia takes seven to eight days of walking from the last roadhead at Askole, camping on ice and moraine with no huts, no villages, and no way out but the way back. There are no shortcuts and no shelter: a licensed guide, porters and a permit are required, and the route stays passable only from June to September before snow seals it again. The reward is a horizon walled with rock and ice on every side, with nothing but glacier and silence in between and K2's black pyramid rising dead ahead above it all. Trekkers who make it sleep at the foot of the mountain that has obsessed and defeated more elite climbers than any other, then turn around at base camp and walk back out the way they came.