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Valley of Flowers

Valley of Flowers

ValleysIndiaUttarakhand,India
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

An Indian Himalayan meadow under snow most of the year, trekked into for the few monsoon weeks when some 500 flowering species open together.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

By mid-September the bloom fades to seed and the slopes turn gold then ochre; the first snow returns and the park closes on October 31. Fewer flowers, clearer post-monsoon skies, quieter trails as the season winds down.



Year-round The valley lies under snow most of the year and opens only June to October; the wildflowers peak in the heart of the monsoon, roughly late July into August.

The Valley of Flowers is a high meadow in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, in northern India, at around 3,500 metres, under snow for most of the year and trekked into for the few monsoon weeks when some 500 flowering species open together across its floor. The valley was unknown to the outside world until 1931, when the British mountaineer Frank Smythe wandered into it lost after a climb and found it in bloom, and his book named it; the meadow runs for about eight kilometres along the Pushpawati river between walls of snow peaks, and for a few weeks from late July into August it is blue with poppies, pink with balsam, purple with geraniums, and the mix turns over so fast that a week changes the valley. The Brahma Kamal, the state flower of Uttarakhand, opens toward dusk rather than in daylight and flowers just once a year here, in the monsoon, on the high slopes. The valley is walked to. From the roadhead at Govindghat a trail climbs for a day to the village of Ghangaria, shared with Sikh pilgrims on their way to the shrine of Hemkund higher up, and from Ghangaria the last stony kilometres climb through the Bhyundar gorge, a corridor narrow enough to hold shadow most of the morning with waterfalls coming down the rock on both sides, before the walls open and the meadow spreads out ahead; the glacial Pushpawati is crossed on stones, and the day is spent walking up the valley among the flowers and back to Ghangaria before dark, since no one may stay overnight. About seven hundred metres off the main path a single headstone stands out in the meadow, the grave of Joan Margaret Legge, a botanist who fell to her death here in 1939 collecting plants. Local tradition ties the valley to the Ramayana as the place where Hanuman searched for the healing herb that would revive Lakshmana. The Valley of Flowers is a garden under snow for ten months, and for the other two it is the reason people walk into the rain.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Time it for late July to mid-August — the bloom peaks with the heaviest monsoon; arrive earlier and the slopes are still mostly green, later and the flowers are already fading.
  • Walk in soon after the 7 a.m. opening — mornings are clearest, and by afternoon monsoon cloud usually rolls up the valley and hides the peaks.
  • The permit is valid for three days — a real cushion here, since a first morning lost to rain or cloud is common and you can simply return the next day.
  • Expect wet rock, leeches, and thin air — waterproof everything, wear boots with grip, and climb slowly from Ghangaria to let your body adjust above 3,000 metres.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Trek up from Ghangaria into the bloom

    Trek up from Ghangaria into the bloom

    Leave Ghangaria after dawn and climb the last stony kilometres through the Bhyundar gorge, a corridor narrow enough to hold shadow most of the morning, with waterfalls coming down the rock on both sides. The gradient is steady rather than steep, but the stone stays wet and slick with moss the whole way. Then the walls fall back and the basin opens in one go — the change is abrupt enough that most people stop where they stand.

  2. 2

    Cross the Pushpawati's meltwater

    Cross the Pushpawati's meltwater

    Step across the braided glacial stream that carved the valley, the Pushpawati. Its water runs grey with the fine rock dust ground down by the ice above, and it comes off the glacier cold enough to chill the air along the banks.

  3. 3

    Find the grave out in the meadow

    Find the grave out in the meadow

    A single headstone stands out in the meadow, about seven hundred metres off the main path. Walking to it takes you across the flowering ground rather than along the edge of it, which is the only way to feel how deep the carpet really runs. By August the growth is high enough that you do not see the stone until you are almost on it.

Watch

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