Champs-Élysées

Street · Champs-Élysées (8th)Paris,France

A dead-straight Paris avenue climbing to the Arc de Triomphe, its lower half still parkland, begun as a sightline pushed out from the Tuileries.

The Champs-Élysées is a dead-straight avenue climbing through plane trees toward the Arc de Triomphe, and you walk it uphill. The lower half is still a park: plane and chestnut trees, fountains, a tucked-away theatre, benches out of sight of any storefront. Then the shops, car showrooms and cinema crowds of the upper stretch take hold. Ahead the Arc grows steadily larger as you climb, from a distant silhouette into a wall of carved stone. In winter the bare trees along the whole climb are wrapped in strings of light. The avenue began as a sightline the royal gardener André Le Nôtre pushed out from the Tuileries in the 1660s, across fields and marsh. Its name borrows the Elysian Fields of Greek myth, the resting place of heroes, yet for a century it stayed half-rural, a promenade of elm rows where Parisians took carriage rides. Only in the 1800s did mansions, cafés and gaslight turn it into the city's parade ground. It still gives itself over to the country's set-piece days, and a long-debated plan now aims to trade traffic lanes for gardens.

Worth knowing

Good to know

The upper stretch changes by the hour — at opening time it is near-empty and you can actually read the architecture; by evening it is a wall of shoppers and headlights.
Turn around near the top — from the upper end the avenue runs the other way too, straight down to the Concorde obelisk and the Tuileries, the sightline most people never look back to see.
The trees are pruned into walls — the plane rows are clipped flat into tall green rectangles, the formal French style that turns a street of trees into architecture.

Things to do

1
Climb the whole avenue from Concorde
Start at the Concorde obelisk and walk the full rise on foot rather than riding past it. Keep the Arc de Triomphe fixed ahead and watch it grow from a distant silhouette into a wall of carved stone as the gardens give way to shopfronts and the crowd thickens near the top.
2
Sit where the avenue is still a park
Step off the pavement into the tree-shaded gardens on the Concorde half, which most visitors hurry past. Find a bench near one of the fountains, out of sight of the storefronts, and let the avenue behave like the quiet promenade it was for its first hundred years.
3
Come for the winter tree lights
Arrive after dark between late November and early January, when the bare plane trees along the whole climb are wrapped in light. Walk the upper stretch at dusk as the strings switch on, and the avenue reads less like a shopping street and more like a lit corridor.