Charles Bridge is 516 metres of sandstone on sixteen arches, and for nearly five centuries it was the only way over the Vltava on foot. Thirty Baroque statues line the parapet, saints set up from 1683 onward; two in every three are copies now, the eroded originals kept indoors. It is still a working street, with the castle on its ridge straight ahead, which is why almost everyone crossing stops halfway.
Work began in 1357. Tradition holds that Charles IV, a king who took astrology seriously, had the first stone laid at 5:31 on the ninth of July, so that the date and time read the same backwards. It replaced a Romanesque crossing that a flood had carried off fifteen years earlier, and it was wide enough for coronation processions, markets and armies. What you meet on it depends on the hour: from mid-morning it belongs to portrait painters, jazz trios and a crowd that barely moves, and before seven it is nearly empty, mist lifting off the water.