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Rwenzori Mountains

Rwenzori Mountains

PeaksUgandaRwenzori Mountains National Park, Kasese,Uganda
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

An equatorial Ugandan range of gneiss and granite carrying Africa's third-highest peak, glaciers above bogs and giant lobelias, and cloud most of the year.

September·Edge of season

Sep

September's first half holds the dry season's firm trails and full glacier access with thinner crowds than August; by month's end the short rains push back in and the afternoons cloud over early.



Year-round The five stacked forest belts, the giant lobelias and groundsels, the glacial tarns and the last shrinking icefield stand every month; the clear views, the firm trail and the glacier climb are seasonal.

The Rwenzori Mountains are a range of gneiss and granite on the equator, on the border of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, carrying the third-highest peak in Africa, Margherita on Mount Stanley at 5,109 metres, with glaciers above bogs of giant lobelias, and they are climbed on treks of a week or more from Kasese through five worlds of vegetation into cloud that hides the peaks most of the year. The Mountains of the Moon, as Ptolemy called them, were mocked for centuries as a fable of African snow feeding the Nile, and they were right, since the range's rivers run into Lake Albert and the Nile; the trail leaves steaming montane forest, passes through bamboo and then tree heathers bearded with lichen, and breaks out onto afro-alpine moorland, where the plants are the wrong size, groundsels and lobelias that stay knee-high elsewhere grown into trees because the equatorial sun and the nightly frost favour the giants, standing in bogs that the walkers sink into to the knee. The Bakonzo of the foothills give the summit snow to Kitasamba, the one who does not need to climb, and their guides and porters carry the treks. Lake Kitandara is the camp of the high route, two glacial tarns side by side in a valley walled by peaks with shores ringed by giant lobelias, and at the high camp on the snowline the daily cloud usually sinks into the valleys after dark and the sky over Mount Stanley opens hard and clear. The summit day is a roped pitch over the Stanley glacier, Africa's last equatorial ice, shrinking fast, to the rock of Margherita, done in the two dry windows of the year, from December to February and June to August, the only dependable chance to see the peaks. The lower forest holds chimpanzees and the Rwenzori turaco, and the Bakonzo villages on the slopes grow coffee. The Rwenzori are the mountains of the moon that turned out to be real, and the snow on them is going.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Start walking at first light — the range builds its own cloud by mid-morning, so the honest views of the peaks usually come in the first two or three hours of the day.
  • Licensed guides and porters are compulsory — take the Central Circuit from Nyakalengija or the Kilembe route from the south, and count on seven to nine days on the mountain either way.
  • Margherita's last pitch is a roped glacier climb, not a walk-up: crampons, harness and helmet are needed, and as the ice shrinks guides now link more bare rock into the finish.
  • January and February give much the same conditions as July and August, but with far emptier huts — most trekkers book the northern-summer window without thinking about it.
  • Look for the Rwenzori turaco on the first day — the range's crimson-winged endemic is loud and hard to miss, and the lower forest is the best birding of the whole trek.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb through five worlds on one mountainside

    Climb through five worlds on one mountainside

    The trail leaves steaming montane forest, passes through bamboo and then tree heathers bearded with lichen, and breaks out onto open afro-alpine moorland before the rock and snow. Few walks on Earth change so completely, so fast, over so little ground.

  2. 2

    Walk beneath giant groundsels and lobelias

    Walk beneath giant groundsels and lobelias

    On the afro-alpine moorland the plants are the wrong size. Groundsels stand taller than a person, lobelias rise in furred columns, and the ground between them is tussock and bog. Higher on the ridges, papery everlasting flowers grow low against the rock and keep their colour through the mist.

  3. 3

    Camp beside Lake Kitandara

    Camp beside Lake Kitandara

    Two glacial tarns lie side by side in a valley walled in by peaks, their shores ringed with giant lobelias. The camp stands right at the water, and you only get here after several days of walking. Mornings are the payoff: the cloud that closes the range in by mid-morning has usually not built yet, so the peaks are still out when you wake.

  4. 4

    Sleep on the equator's snowline at high camp

    Sleep on the equator's snowline at high camp

    After dark the daily cloud usually sinks into the valleys and the sky over Mount Stanley opens hard and clear. Nights up here are bitterly cold for a place sitting on the equator, and the only sounds are meltwater and the occasional crack from the ice above.

Watch

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