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Saharna Landscape Reserve

Saharna Landscape Reserve

WaterfallsMoldovaRezina,Moldova

A Moldovan limestone gorge with twenty-two waterfalls above the Dniester, and a monastery at the bottom holding the country's only saint's relics.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

September holds the water low and the paths dry — then October brings the reserve's quietest, most beautiful weeks.



Year-round The working monastery, its saint's relics and the cliff-cut gorge stand here every day, gate-free. The waterfalls, the forest colour, the snow and the pilgrim crowds are what turn with the seasons.

Saharna Landscape Reserve is a limestone gorge in the Rezina district of eastern Moldova, above the Dniester river, where the Saharna stream steps down twenty-two waterfalls to a monastery at the bottom that holds the relics of the country's only saint, and it is walked from the monastery up the gorge to the biggest fall and climbed above to a chapel over a footprint in the rock. The monastery is here because of a vision: a monk saw the Virgin on the cliff and found her footprint in the stone where she had stood, and the Holy Trinity monastery was founded below it in 1776, with a flight of steps running up the cliff to a tiny chapel built over the hollow that pilgrims believe is the footprint; inside the church a hand-carved iconostasis climbs in gold tiers under painted vaults, and the relics of Macarie, a monk of the monastery canonised in 1995, lie in a shrine that draws the pilgrims. The Soviets closed the monastery in 1964 and made its cells hospital wards, its summer church a storehouse and its winter church a house of culture, while a priest kept working at night, and the monks came back in 1991. The gorge behind the monastery is a walk of an hour along the stream through downy oak and hornbeam, the water stepping down limestone shelves in a chain of small cascades to the biggest, Groapa Tiganului, the Gypsy's Pit, a modest fall of about four and a half metres dropping over a limestone lip into a rock hollow ten metres deep. A steep pull above the monastery ends on an open plateau where a fortress stood three thousand years ago, with the Dniester below and Transnistria on the far bank, and the caves in the cliffs held hermits before the monastery. The thaw flood of March drives all 22 cascades hard, and in October the oak turns yellow and rust over the shelves buried in leaves. Saharna is a gorge with a saint at its foot, and the footprint on the cliff is why the monks came.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • 26 May is the year's biggest day — Macarie's feast fills the monastery with pilgrims. Come midweek instead and the path up the gorge is often empty.
  • Climb the steps to the Grimidon chapel, not just the hillfort — it is a far shorter climb, and it gives you the domes, the gorge and the Dniester in one frame.
  • The limestone around the falls stays slick — mossy ledges and wet steps catch people out even in dry weather, so wear shoes with grip rather than sandals.
  • After a dry summer the falls shrink — the Saharna is a small stream, and by August the Gypsy's Pit can be more pool than waterfall.
  • This is a working monastery, not a museum — cover shoulders and knees, and women are usually expected to put on a headscarf before entering the church.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Reach Groapa Tiganului, the Gypsy's Pit

    Reach Groapa Tiganului, the Gypsy's Pit

    The reserve's biggest waterfall is a modest one: the Saharna drops about four and a half metres over a limestone lip into a rock hollow roughly ten metres deep. People edge onto the wet shelf behind the curtain. Keep going upstream and the river steps down one small mossy cascade after another.

  2. 2

    Stand at the shrine that holds Macarie

    Stand at the shrine that holds Macarie

    Inside the Holy Trinity church a hand-carved iconostasis climbs in gold tiers under painted vaults, and Macarie himself looks down from the arch. Pilgrims come for the reliquary below it, which holds the only relics of a canonised saint in Moldova.

  3. 3

    Walk out to the hillfort on Dealul Manastirii

    Walk out to the hillfort on Dealul Manastirii

    A steep pull above the monastery ends on an open grass plateau where a fortress stood three thousand years ago. Almost nothing survives but a marker; the reward is the Dniester unrolling below you between wooded slopes, with the whole gorge at your feet.

  4. 4

    Climb to the footprint chapel on Grimidon

    Climb to the footprint chapel on Grimidon

    A flight of steps runs up the cliff to a tiny chapel built over a hollow in the rock that pilgrims believe is the Virgin's footprint — the reason the monastery stands below. Whatever you make of the story, the ledge outside is the best place to stand in Saharna: monastery, gorge and river all in one view.

Watch

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