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Kamianets-Podilskyi

Kamianets-Podilskyi

CanyonsUkraineKhmelnytskyi,Ukraine

A Ukrainian old town marooned inside a canyon the Smotrych loops around it, with a fortress plugging the single neck of land in.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The fullest season: highs in the mid-20s°C, the Old Castle open to its longest evening hours, the dry canyon paths safe underfoot and the old town at its liveliest. September stays warm and clear as the crowds thin.



Year-round The canyon ring, the castle and its Turkish bridge stand every day of the year; winter brings shorter fortress hours and icy paths, and air-raid alerts can close the sites at any hour.

Kamianets-Podilskyi is an old town in the Khmelnytskyi oblast of western Ukraine, marooned on a peninsula of rock inside a canyon that the Smotrych river loops almost completely around it, with a fortress plugging the single neck of land in, and it is entered over a stone bridge into the castle and walked along a rim where the limestone walls fall fifty metres to the river. The pale rock the town is built on is the floor of a tropical sea of more than 400 million years ago, and the river cut the loop through it, leaving a natural moat that made the town one of the strongest places in eastern Europe, fought over by Poles, Ottomans and Cossacks; the only road into the fortress runs along a span of 88 metres that the Ottomans rebuilt during the sieges, which is why locals call it the Turkish Bridge, and the Old Castle behind it was ringed by twelve towers, of which seven stand intact, each raised or reinforced by a different century's defenders, one repaired with money sent by Pope Julius II and named by the locals for the Ukrainian outlaw who kept escaping from it. The Ottomans held the town from 1672 to 1699 and left a minaret of 36.5 metres beside the Catholic cathedral, on which the Poles set a gilded Virgin Mary 4.5 metres tall, still standing over the town. The old town inside the loop is a grid of churches of three faiths, Polish, Armenian and Orthodox, and a market square, and a footpath traces the top of the gorge around it, with paths dropping to the river at the bottom past ruined water mills among the trees. The fortress is the backdrop of a hot-air balloon festival, and from late October the wooded canyon that rings the town turns gold and rust, so the castle stands above a complete circle of colour. Kamianets-Podilskyi is a town a river fenced in, and the castle guards the one gap.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The best view of the castle is from outside it — the Novoplanivskyi Bridge frames the towers, the canyon and the river in one shot, which is the picture everyone comes home with.
  • Air-raid alerts are part of the day here — install an alert app before you arrive, and expect the fortress and museums to close and empty into shelters until the all-clear.
  • The canyon rim path is unpaved and has no railings in places, with a steep drop to the river — wear shoes with grip, and think twice after rain or in winter ice.
  • Give the site a full day — the fortress itself takes a couple of hours, and the old town and the paths down in the canyon are the other half of the visit.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross the Turkish Bridge into the castle gate

    Cross the Turkish Bridge into the castle gate

    The only road into the fortress runs along an 88-metre span of stone that the Ottomans rebuilt during the sieges, which is why locals still call it the Turkish Bridge. Walk it rather than drive it: the canyon falls away on both sides, the riverbed some 27 metres below, and the gate towers grow in front of you the whole way across.

  2. 2

    See the golden Virgin Mary atop the Ottoman minaret

    See the golden Virgin Mary atop the Ottoman minaret

    A 36.5-metre minaret still stands beside the Catholic cathedral, left behind when the Ottomans withdrew in 1699. Since 1756 a gilded Virgin Mary, four and a half metres tall, has stood on top of it — the strangest silhouette in the old town, and the one that tells its whole history in a single glance.

  3. 3

    Stand on the canyon rim above the Smotrych

    Stand on the canyon rim above the Smotrych

    A footpath traces the top of the gorge, where the limestone walls fall as much as 50 metres to the river below. From up here you see what no map explains properly: the river running a complete ring around the town, and the fortress sitting on the one piece of ground that closes it.

  4. 4

    Climb the towers of the Old Castle

    Climb the towers of the Old Castle

    Twelve towers once ringed the Old Castle and seven still stand intact, each raised or reinforced by a different century's defenders. You can climb them and walk the curtain walls between, looking down on the canyon the way the garrison did when they watched for armies coming out of the east.

  5. 5

    Walk the Smotrych past the ruined water mills

    Walk the Smotrych past the ruined water mills

    Paths drop off the rim and run along the Smotrych at the bottom of the gorge, past ruined water mills standing among the trees. Down here the traffic disappears, the limestone walls close overhead, and the fortress you were photographing an hour ago is a silhouette on the skyline.

Watch

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