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Somoto Canyon

Somoto Canyon

CanyonsNicaraguaMadriz,Nicaragua

A Nicaraguan slot four metres wide in places under 190-metre rims, cut into welded volcanic ash, where the longest river in Central America begins.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

September and October are the peak-rain months, the river at its most dramatic. Check before you travel.



Year-round The 3.5 km slot, its potholed rhyolite walls and deep pools stand year-round; what shifts is the river — its level, its colour, and whether you wade it, float it, or find the gate shut.

Somoto Canyon is a slot cut into welded volcanic ash in the Madriz department of northern Nicaragua, near the Honduran border, four metres wide in places under rims of 190 metres, where the longest river in Central America, the Río Coco, begins, and it is waded, swum and floated in inner tubes for three and a half kilometres of narrows with guides from the villages at its mouth, who found it for the world in 2004. The stone can be dated to the eruptions of the Miocene, but the canyon is young, cut by the river in the last few thousand years, and the round basins in the rock underfoot were bored by pebbles spinning in the current; the route starts on dry thorny hillsides, works down over boulders to where the pools grow too deep to stand in, and then the walls rise, so that the visitor rides low in a wooden boat or swims the green pools between potholed bars of pale water-sculpted rock, with the guides stopping at rock shelves above pools deep enough for a jump, from a modest step to a drop of several metres. In the dry months the river runs low, cool and clear green, and the pace is the swimmer's rather than the current's. After heavy rain the river lifts several metres and turns the colour of milky coffee, when the narrows are floated rather than swum, and at full flood the authorities close the monument. The Río Coco born here goes on to divide Nicaragua from Honduras for most of its 750 kilometres, and the two countries spent half a century arguing over the border it makes, settled by the World Court in 1960. The canyon was known to the farmers of the valley and to nobody else until two Czech geologists surveyed it, and the families of the hamlets at its mouth run the trips, with lunch in their yards after. Somoto is a crack that a river starts in, and the river that leaves it is the longest in the isthmus.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Everything you carry gets wet — long stretches are passable only by swimming or in a boat, so bring a dry bag for phone and camera and wear shoes you can swim in.
  • Book through the guides' co-operative in Somoto rather than arriving unannounced; the surrounding villages take turns on the work, and the fee covers life vests and the boat leg.
  • Tell the guides honestly how well you swim — they choose between the short and long routes on that answer, and the long one has stretches with no footing at all.
  • Set out early — the walk in crosses open hillside with no shade and bakes by mid-morning, while the water deep in the narrows stays cold whatever time you reach it.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride low in a wooden boat as the walls rise

    Ride low in a wooden boat as the walls rise

    The route starts on dry, thorny hillsides and works down over boulders to where the pools grow too deep to stand in. A guide is waiting there with a wooden boat, and you sit low in it while the walls close overhead and the sky narrows to a bright ribbon.

  2. 2

    Swim the green pools between the potholed bars

    Swim the green pools between the potholed bars

    In the low months the river shrinks to a chain of dark green pools divided by ramps of pale, water-sculpted rock. You clamber across the bars, then slip in and swim the gaps, where the water stays cool even when the hills above are baking.

  3. 3

    Float the flood when the river runs brown

    Float the flood when the river runs brown

    After heavy rain the Río Coco lifts several metres and turns the colour of milky coffee. There is little swimming to be done then: the current takes hold and carries you down the narrows, past foam lines and rock bars that stood dry a season earlier.

  4. 4

    Jump from the ledge into a deep pool

    Jump from the ledge into a deep pool

    The guides stop at rock shelves above pools deep enough to take a jump, from a modest step to a drop of several metres. Nobody has to do it, and the cold of water that rarely sees direct sun tends to make the decision for you.

Watch

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