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Sümela Monastery

Sümela Monastery

Sacred SitesTürkiyeTrabzon,Türkiye

A Greek Orthodox monastery welded to a cliff 300 metres above a Turkish Black Sea valley, built around a cave church painted inside and out.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

Full daylight, every path open, the greenest forest of the year. And the cloud show is at its height: humid Black Sea air condenses on the cliff, swallowing the monastery and handing it back several times in an afternoon.



Year-round The cliff, the cave Rock Church and its layered frescoes stand here every day; what changes is the cloud, the autumn colour, the winter snow and how much the weather lets you climb.

Sümela Monastery is a Greek Orthodox monastery welded to a cliff 300 metres above a valley of spruce in the Black Sea mountains of Türkiye, in Trabzon province, built around a cave church painted with frescoes inside and out, and it is climbed to by a cobbled stair through the forest and seen whole only from across the gorge, where the cloud fills the valley from below and erases it several times in an afternoon. The monastery was founded, by tradition, in the fourth century by two Athenian monks who found an icon of the Virgin in the cave, and it grew into a complex of chapels, cells and a library on ledges under the overhang, granted revenues and imperial protection by Alexios III of Trebizond in 1365 and kept by the Ottoman sultans after them; the monks left in 1923 with the exchange of populations, burying their icon under the floor of a chapel outside the walls and expecting to return, and the icon was later dug up and taken to Greece. The rock church at the heart carries frescoes on both faces, the courtyard side as well as the interior, in layers from three periods, Christ, the Virgin and scenes of the Bible, many with the eyes scraped out. One explanation for the missing eyes is not vandalism, since locals are said to have scraped the paint because a chip of it, boiled, was thought to carry a blessing. The shuttle stops in the valley of the Altındere national park and the rest is a steep walk up stone steps through spruce and chestnut, and from inside the courtyard the rock cannot be seen, so the view of the whole cliff with the monastery pinned to it is from the road across the gorge. The cloud sits lowest in the muggy months of August and September, when the monastery is hidden and handed back through the day, and in October the chestnut and lime turn gold against the dark spruce. Sümela is a church stuck to a cliff, and the cloud decides when it is seen.

Worth knowing

HistoryThe sultan who kept the emperor's promise

Alexios III of Trebizond signed a decree in 1365 granting the monastery revenues, tax exemption and imperial protection. When the Ottomans took Trebizond in 1461, they renewed those privileges instead of revoking them.

Good to know

  • A shuttle takes you up the valley, but the last climb is yours — a steep cobbled stair finishes the job, so keep proper shoes on and leave the heavy bag in the car.
  • Cloud thickens as the day warms — mornings usually give the clearest look at the full facade, while by afternoon the mist can close in and hide the monastery altogether.
  • Wet stone is the real hazard — this is one of the rainiest valleys in the country, and the cobbles and stairs stay slick long after the rain has stopped.
  • The Orthodox liturgy is no longer a fixed date — it needs a pass from the Ecumenical Patriarchate, and for three years running permission has been given for late August, not the 15th.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Read the cave church painted inside and out

    Read the cave church painted inside and out

    The Rock Church carries frescoes on both faces, the courtyard side as well as the interior, in layers from three periods. Look high up, where they survive because nobody could reach them: apostles, angels, Saint Ignatius torn apart by lions. The rooms around it — cells, kitchen, library — open onto the wooded valley the monks saw every morning.

  2. 2

    Climb the cobbled stair through the spruce

    Climb the cobbled stair through the spruce

    The shuttle stops in the valley and the rest is a steep walk up stone steps through spruce and chestnut forest. The monastery keeps appearing between the trunks and disappearing again, and the wall above you grows until it fills the whole sky.

  3. 3

    See the full cliff from across the gorge

    See the full cliff from across the gorge

    From inside the courtyard you cannot see the rock you are standing on. Cross to the far side of the valley and the monastery finally makes sense: a row of pale buildings pasted onto 300 metres of dark stone, held up by nothing you can see.

  4. 4

    Wait for the cloud to erase the monastery

    Wait for the cloud to erase the monastery

    Stay put on a humid afternoon and watch the valley fill with cloud from below. The mist climbs the cliff until the buildings fade to outlines and then disappear altogether, and a few minutes later it thins again and they are back.

Watch

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