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The Grotto

The Grotto

CavesNorthern Mariana IslandsSaipan,Northern Mariana Islands
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A collapsed sea cave under Saipan's northern cliffs, reached down 112 steps, its pool lit blue from below by three tunnels running to the Pacific.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

The sea stays warm and calm and the water still clear, but the sun is dropping so the blue softens. This is the heart of the rain-and-typhoon season, when storms can churn the coast and shut the site for days at a time.



Year-round The blue chamber, the resident whitetip sharks and the Batcave are here every month; only the light and the sea state change.

The Grotto is a collapsed sea cave under the northern cliffs of Saipan, in the Northern Mariana Islands, reached down 112 concrete steps to a pool of dark water lit blue from below by three tunnels running out to the Pacific, and it is snorkelled from the ledge and dived through the tunnels into the open sea, one of the most famous cavern dives in the world. Islands like Saipan hollow out from the inside, since the limestone dissolves where fresh water meets salt, and the Grotto is a chamber whose roof fell in, leaving a hole in the cliff with a pool at the bottom and the sea entering underneath; the stairway switchbacks down the cliff to a sunlit ledge at the water's edge, and from the surface the three submerged tunnels blaze blue when the sun rides high, from April to August, each mouth a window of daylight burning against black rock, with reef fish moving through the light. The surface pool is snorkelled without gear, and the shop-led dives go out through the tunnels to the reef beyond, where the swell is felt in the openings. A second cavern, the Batcave, is cut into the southwest wall, completely underwater and dropping to about fifteen metres, lined past the reach of daylight with bubble coral and pink lace coral, and white-tip reef sharks often rest inside it, seen with a torch. The stairway is younger than the cave's fame, since the site was closed after typhoon damage, rebuilt and reopened, and the climb back up the 112 steps with dive gear is the price of the visit. The northern end of the island around it is the cliffs of the last stand of 1944, Banzai Cliff and Suicide Cliff, with their memorials, and the Bird Island lookout above the reef. The Grotto is a hole in the island with the sea underneath, and the light comes in through three doors.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Never surface outside the tunnel mouths. The current that keeps the water clear also makes climbing back in nearly impossible against the rock, and it has killed both divers and snorkellers here.
  • The blue switches on around midday. The sun has to be high enough to drive light through the submerged tunnels; early morning is calmer but the chamber stays dim and grey.
  • Read Penguin Rock before you commit. The surge sweeps over the entry ledge in sets — time your step between them, and if it is washing high, skip the water entirely.
  • Swimming costs five dollars, looking is free. Anyone entering the water pays the site fee; CNMI ID holders are exempt, and the cliff-top lookout costs nothing at all.
  • The 112 steps are the real workout. They are steep, humid and slick with spray, so wear shoes with grip — and carry your own water, because there is no shade or shop at the bottom.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Descend the 112 steps to the water

    Descend the 112 steps to the water

    A stairway of 112 concrete steps switchbacks down the cliff to a sunlit ledge at the edge of the pool, and it is the only way in on foot. The steps are steep, humid and slick with spray, so wear shoes that grip. Partway down, the chamber opens up in front of you and you see how big it really is.

  2. 2

    Snorkel the sunlit surface pool

    Snorkel the sunlit surface pool

    You do not need diving gear to see the best of it. Float on the surface of the bright blue pool and look straight down through the clear water towards the tunnel mouths below. Come in the middle of the day, when the sun is high enough to drive light through those mouths at full strength; once the cliff shadow arrives, the chamber greys out.

  3. 3

    Dive out through the three blue windows

    Dive out through the three blue windows

    Book a shop-led dive to swim through the submerged tunnels that link the chamber to the open Pacific, each mouth a window of daylight burning against black rock. This is guided work, never a solo snorkel: the current outside runs hard and the only way back in is a single narrow throat.

  4. 4

    Dive the Batcave with reef sharks

    Dive the Batcave with reef sharks

    A second cavern is cut into the southwest wall, completely underwater, and it drops to about 15 metres. Visibility here regularly runs past 30 metres. White-tip reef sharks rest inside it, and turtles and Napoleon wrasse pass by often. Dive shops run it as a guided extra for divers with air to spare.

Watch

Nearby

Ritidian Point 206 km

Ritidian Point

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