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Tottori Sand Dunes

Tottori Sand Dunes

DesertsJapanTottori,Japan

Sixteen kilometres of wind-built sand ridges falling into the Sea of Japan, kept bare only because volunteers weed the invading grass by hand.

September·Quiet month

Jun–Sep

Summer is the calm season: the wind drops, so fresh ripples are rare and the sand blazes white under a sun near 30°C. Nothing closes — sandboarding, camels and the Museum run, and clear nights bring the Milky Way and squid-boat lights offshore.



Year-round The three sand ridges, the Horse's Back crest, the deep suribachi bowls and the camels at the gate are here every day, and the free dunes never close, day or night.

The Tottori Sand Dunes are sixteen kilometres of wind-built sand ridges falling into the Sea of Japan on the coast of Tottori prefecture, in western Japan, the country's most famous dune field, up to fifty metres high, kept bare only because volunteers weed the invading grass by hand, and they are climbed, boarded down, paraglided from and walked after snow. The sand came down the Sendai river from the granite mountains over a hundred thousand years and was piled by the onshore wind into three ridges, and after the war the pines planted to hold the sand and the grass that followed began to close over them, so the prefecture and its volunteers pull the grass every year to keep the dunes as dunes; the middle ridge, Uma-no-Se, the Horse's Back, is a wall of sand 47 metres high with no path up it from below, climbed in a slog to the crest, and on the sheltered side of each ridge the loose sand slides downhill until it stops at the steepest angle dry sand can hold, leaving a slope that is ridden on a board. The winds that move the sand blow from autumn to early spring, corrugating the whole field into ripples, while summer is the calm season. Since 2009 it has been illegal to mark the dunes with any letter or figure larger than ten square metres, and the prefecture fines for it. The onshore wind makes the main ridge a tandem paragliding launch, with the whole coastline opening below, and the Sand Museum next to the dunes is the only indoor sand-sculpture museum in the world, rebuilt around a different country every year. A Sea of Japan cold snap buries the gold ridges under snow, and the same wind blows sand back over the white in dark streaks, so a fully white dune field shows only a handful of days each winter. Tottori is a desert on a wet coast, and it is kept a desert by hand.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come at first light for the fuumon — the wind rebuilds its ripple patterns overnight and the first hour of walkers erases them, while low sun throws every ridge into relief.
  • Uma-no-Se is 47 metres of loose sand with no steps — wear trainers rather than sandals, and expect blown sand to sting bare skin on windy days.
  • The Sand Museum shuts every January until late April while the old sculptures are demolished and the same sand is recycled into the next country's exhibition.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb Uma-no-Se, the 47-metre sand wall

    Climb Uma-no-Se, the 47-metre sand wall

    The Horse's Back is the middle of the three dune ridges, and from below it is simply a wall of sand with no path up it. Loose ground steals half of every step, so the climb takes longer than it looks — then the crest arrives and the far side falls away to the Sea of Japan.

  2. 2

    See a whole country carved in sand

    See a whole country carved in sand

    The Sand Museum next to the dunes is the only indoor sand-sculpture museum in the world, and it rebuilds itself around a different country every year. International carvers work in nothing but packed dune sand and water — no glue, no frame — and the scale only registers when you stand at the foot of one.

  3. 3

    Launch by paraglider off the dune crest

    Launch by paraglider off the dune crest

    The same onshore wind that piles the dunes up makes the main ridge a tandem launch point, and the whole coastline opens up under you. It is the rare flight where a bad landing means sitting down hard in soft sand.

  4. 4

    Walk the dunes after a snowfall

    Walk the dunes after a snowfall

    A Sea of Japan cold snap turns the gold ridges white, and underfoot the ground breaks into crusted snow one step and dry sand the next. The oasis pond down in the hollow freezes over, and the slopes that carry sandboarders all summer stand empty, silent and colourless.

  5. 5

    Ride a board down the smooth, steep sheltered side of a ridge

    On the sheltered side of each ridge the loose sand slides downhill until it stops at the steepest angle dry sand can hold, leaving a smooth, steep slope. That slope makes a natural run. You strap a board on at the top and ride down, and a fall lands you on soft sand rather than hard ground. The school runs sessions from mid-April until the end of November.

Watch

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