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La Boqueria

La Boqueria

Barcelona City Guide
Market · El Raval (off La Rambla)Barcelona, Spain

La Boqueria had no roof for most of its life. Tables of meat stood beside the Portal de la Boqueria, a gate in the medieval wall, from the 13th century onwards, and for some six hundred years the market traded in the open street. A convent occupied the ground behind the stalls until it burned down in 1835. The plot was cleared, and from 1840 the city laid out a formal square in its place, hoping the stalls would become tidy and permanent. They stayed as crowded and disorderly as before. The metal roof everyone photographs went up only in 1914. Inside, the goods change as you walk. Cut fruit and juice crowd the Rambla end, priced for people passing; deeper in, the light drops and the fish hall opens at the centre, all ice, steel and shouted numbers. The back rows are the quiet trade: salt cod, cooked chickpeas sold by weight, offal laid out without apology. Cooks still shop here early, and so do people buying one hake for lunch. By the middle of the day the aisles move shoulder to shoulder, and the small bar counters between the stalls cook for whoever got a stool.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Skip the stalls that photograph their own food — the Rambla end is priced for the crush passing outside, and the market's working trade begins a few aisles in.
  • Fish is thinnest at the start of the week — the boats rest at the weekend, so the ice beds fill out from midweek on, and mornings beat afternoons in every aisle.
  • Point, never touch — and order as little as you like: a hundred grams of ham or a single slice of cod is a normal request here, not an insult.
  • Read the crates, not the signs — calçots in winter, broad beans and cherries in spring, rovellons after the autumn rain; the stalls change faster than any menu in the city.
  • Look down before you go in — the Rambla pavement outside the entrance is a Joan Miró mosaic from 1976, and one tile carries his signature underfoot.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Come out of the back door

    Come out of the back door

    Enter from La Rambla and keep walking until you come out of the back doors onto Plaça de la Gardunya. This side is porters, trolleys, crates and hosed-down floor, with nobody selling you anything. Wait there a while, then walk back in against the flow and see what you missed.

  2. 2

    Claim a stool at a mid-aisle counter

    Claim a stool at a mid-aisle counter

    Claim a stool at one of the small bars buried in the aisles, early, before the lunch crush. Ignore the printed board and order whatever the cook already has on the plancha — fried eggs with baby squid, cuttlefish, whatever came off the ice that morning. Keep your elbows in.

  3. 3

    Watch salt cod being cut

    Watch salt cod being cut

    Find the bacallaneria — white slabs sitting in shallow trays of running water. Watch the knife for a few minutes: loin, thin tail and belly all go to different dishes. Ask which piece is meant for esqueixada, the shredded raw-cod salad, and you will get an answer and a nod.

Watch

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