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Sagrada Família

Sagrada Família

Barcelona City Guide
Landmark · EixampleBarcelona, Spain

The Sagrada Família was begun by a bookseller. Josep Maria Bocabella raised the money in small donations, the first stone went down in 1882, and the first architect resigned within a year. The work passed in 1883 to Antoni Gaudí, then thirty-one, who kept almost nothing of the earlier plan. He called the Gothic flying buttress a crutch and leaned his columns inward like trunks instead, so the load runs straight down them into the ground. He worked here for forty-three years, and after 1914 took no other commission. Inside, the church works like a forest. The columns divide into branches near the ceiling, the vaults open into whorls of skylights, and the glass is tuned by compass point — blues and greens where the sun rises, reds and ambers on the west — so the nave changes colour as the day crosses it. Gaudí was struck by a tram in 1926 and died three days later, with only a fraction of the church standing. It was consecrated as a basilica in 2010 and is still unfinished: the cranes turn, and under the vaults there is a permanent murmur of people looking up.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The pavement by the doors is the crush — step back into either square facing the church; from the pond in Plaça de Gaudí the towers line up and double in the water.
  • The two fronts are meant to disagree — Gaudí's Nativity side is dense and alive; the Passion side, carved much later by Subirachs, is gaunt and angular. Opinion on it stays divided.
  • Zoom, don't widen — the wide interior shot turns to white clutter, while the mosaic fruit crowning the towers only reads through a long lens. Outside, morning lights the Nativity front, late sun the Passion.
  • Don't walk past the small brick building — it is Gaudí's schoolhouse for the workers' children, its thin wavy roof built entirely from straight lines. Le Corbusier stopped to sketch it in the 1920s.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Follow one column all the way up

    Follow one column all the way up

    Pick a single column in the nave and start at the floor. Feel the star-shaped base under your hand, then watch the section change as it rises: the star gains sides at every turn until, near the top, it reads as a circle. Note the stone too — the darkest, hardest shafts stand at the crossing, where the load is greatest.

  2. 2

    Sit still for the colour change

    Sit still for the colour change

    Take a seat near the western wall in late afternoon and wait. Reds and oranges slide down the columns and spread across the floor as the sun drops. Then walk to the eastern end, where the same hour leaves the blues and greens cool and unlit.

  3. 3

    Read the Nativity façade from outside

    Read the Nativity façade from outside

    Stand outside the eastern doors and work upward slowly. Find the tortoise and the sea turtle carrying the two door columns, the chameleons at the outer corners, and the cypress hung with white doves at the summit. Name three plants you can recognise before you go inside.

Watch

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